Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So you're still keeping the airflow output map on greddy sensor when doing all this right? and doing all the clamping there and not even using the boost limiter map?

no the airflow output map was still throttle position vs rpm.

i was using the boost limiter map but for some reason it wasnt working.

Hmm not had this issue, i would try juggling the afm voltage in the output map to mid way between the two, bit on the rich side at idle say 12.5-13 instead of 14 ish and see if you can get enough cold start in there. without playing with it here it is a bit hard sorry.

ok i'll try putting the idle voltage somewhere around 1.35v and +20 to -20 which will give me 40% to play with. i should have thought of that sooner. thanks Trent, i'll let you know how i go.

  • Replies 765
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

no the airflow output map was still throttle position vs rpm.

i was using the boost limiter map but for some reason it wasnt working.

What are you using to to tune the injector and/or ignition maps after the clamp? Greddy pressure or still throttle postion vs. RPM?

I'm sorry maybe you've posted this info already..... i have read this whole thread (took a week) but I dont remember if you have or not.

Edited by antomx
What are you using to to tune the injector and/or ignition maps after the clamp? Greddy pressure or still throttle postion vs. RPM?

I'm sorry maybe you've posted this info already..... i have read this whole thread (took a week) but I dont remember if you have or not.

best to use pressure sensor. better resolution... gm sensor works fine to and cheaper.

What are you using to to tune the injector and/or ignition maps after the clamp? Greddy pressure or still throttle postion vs. RPM?

I'm sorry maybe you've posted this info already..... i have read this whole thread (took a week) but I dont remember if you have or not.

yeah mate im using the pressure sensor for everything else.

its just cleaner to make the car run on the MAP sensor if you log the AFM voltages vs. throttle position.

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for a very basic question I think but I dont really know much about mapping and am looking at E-Manage Ultimate as an option.

My S1 RB25DET had been converted to a wasted spark setup like this

Same kit

and I was wondering if this affects the ability to wire it in etc ?

Many thanks

Paul

  • 2 weeks later...
Sorry for a very basic question I think but I dont really know much about mapping and am looking at E-Manage Ultimate as an option.

My S1 RB25DET had been converted to a wasted spark setup like this

Same kit

and I was wondering if this affects the ability to wire it in etc ?

Many thanks

Paul

no stress, but yeah you need to follow the wasted spark diagram in the installation book

  • 1 month later...

I was just wondering if someone would be kindly enough to send me there map for:

rb25det s1

"emanage blue"

Stock Turbo

Stock Injectors

FMIC

POD

FULL Exhaust

looking to run about 13-14psi

i've just purchased a Blue emanage and have full access to a dyno

Though i will be looking to take it to trent afterwards for some fine tuning

I have the cable for the Emanage blue but having trouble tracking down the software for it

hopefully someone can be nice enough to send me the software also

[email protected]

Cheers

  • 1 month later...

This is the injector map of my EMU.

I dont know a thing about what these numbers mean really but my car is stareting to run like SH!T!

Getting alot of soot on the back now and cant run full boost without pinging.

Full is 15psi low is 10.5 runs on low boost but stinks of fuel when ever I pullup.

Does this map look normal?

post-34973-1238666237_thumb.jpg

Hi,

Just two quick questions about these ECU's. Is there anyway to reset them to a 'stock' map(i.e makes no alterations to signals).

Also will I be able to put in bigger injectors and Z32 AFM and make some quick adjustments myself so I can drive it to the tuner? It looks as simple as selecting the correct AFM, and then setting the old injector size, new injector size and timing. Is this correct and will I be able to drive on this safely or is there more too it?

Cheers,

Adrian

no you should be able to set those two things (assuming you have set it for the right car ) and drive to your tuner

i drove around for ages before taking it to the tuner

although I had a wideband and was able to tune the non load points so it wasnt rich as

just dont boost it hard and you should be fine

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all. im kinda rooke in this area but have some quiestions that u guys might be able to answer. i have my emu hooked up with the plug in loom. car starts fine but it gets way to much fuel, the sparkplugs are very black, thou not wet.

I have set the correct parameters of the injectors as seen on the printscreens in the beginning of this thread. there seems to be some sort of problem cause if i set it at say 370cc and lagtime @ 0.71 at before and then changes to 850cc with a lagtime of 0.85 the car starts goes up a little in rev and then dies.

When setting both before and after to the same so it says 850 on both and same lagtime tha car runs better but still get isnae much fuel.

does make any difference if i put in 370cc onboth places either.

When taking the rev up to ~2000 rpms and letting of the gas the car stays on 2000 for a little moment and then goes down. very unresposive and runs poorly.

Any Ideas on what i can have done wrong?

Greatful for answers!

The car has those specs.

R33 gts-t

Topmount exhaust manifold.

Garret gt32 turbo

Greddystyle intake manifold.

Fmic

3" from turbo

Sard 850cc sidefeed injectors

sard progressive FPR with clock

Hks mushroom filter

This is the injector map of my EMU.

I dont know a thing about what these numbers mean really but my car is stareting to run like SH!T!

Getting alot of soot on the back now and cant run full boost without pinging.

Full is 15psi low is 10.5 runs on low boost but stinks of fuel when ever I pullup.

Does this map look normal?

Dave i still have not recieved your map, still happy to have a look over it.

[email protected]

Cheers Trent

Is there any reason or workaround for me not being able to get the car running more than 2 seconds when i put 370cc on "before" and 850 on "after" parameters in I/J settings?

If i set them to the same numbers in both before and after column it starts and runs decent.

Is there any reason or workaround for me not being able to get the car running more than 2 seconds when i put 370cc on "before" and 850 on "after" parameters in I/J settings?

If i set them to the same numbers in both before and after column it starts and runs decent.

best bet is to forget the numbers and concentrate on the results ie actual lambda. move the injector setting to say 650 then play with the lag times (0.5 - 0.9). Some injectors require thinking way outside the norm and the only way to set it up is by trial and error... bit of a bummer.

Edited by URAS
  • 1 month later...

hey trent,

the check engine light came on today on my R34 neo.

i got the tuner to install the unit + the neo ignition chip as well.

any reason why this would by happening?

car isn't miss firing or anything and is still running as normal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...