Jump to content
SAU Community

Are you interested in a custom modified PFC to suit your RB20 and RB25?  

336 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

I've decided I will be doing loom mods for the R32. I 'may' in the future do a few for those here in SA.

I'm not going to bother with the Rb25 and its VCT as I don't have the time to research and build a vct controller.

My PFC is finally in AUS.. Its taken 10weeks to get to me from nengun; the majority of the wait has to do with japans holidays I believe. :D

Its not all that simple though as the pfc requires a datalogit to be thrown on it, airflow curves + map references played with + other little settings.

One of the reasons I'm only going to do it for a couple of locals. Its simply not worth the hassle or the wait from nengun for the pfc.

If I were to buy the pfc's locally its not worth the cost as one may as well go out and get a decent wolf3d v500 or the likes, especially when you consider you don't have to buy an ebc etc as its all in one.

I'm not willing to leave myself open, some one connects it up does something wrong and blows something up blaming me.

So its either all *including tuning* or nothing. :D

I don't have any plans to get a production of sorts going from this but as I said willing to help a few out locally. :domokun:

ah yeah maybe you are right

i reckon it could be possible to make it run with just changes via hand controller

the changes from the 26 to 25 fc are only minor minor changes, not massive big changes

like 0.1 for dwell etc

You need to modify the airflow curve/map reference for it to use utilize the load points correctly.

+ the inlet airtemp sensor Must be zero'd out otherwise ign correction will occur. All of which require the datalogit. :D

Dwell I don't believe is an issue; I haven't noticed any difference flicking between rb25, 26 or 20 dwell settings.

yeah but the airtemp correction backs

3 deg at 60deg airtemp

5 deg at 70deg airtemp

so if the sensor isnt connected it wont do anything

so thats not a big deal. i think if you select the power intake option it shoud be very close to the stock 25 ramp and values

Last time I checked my apengineering datalogit logs it defaults to 175degree's when nothings connected. :S

To be 100% sure we need Mafia to comment on what his logs stated to be 100% sure it also defaults to 175degree's for the rb26 pfc.

ah yeah maybe you are right

i reckon it could be possible to make it run with just changes via hand controller

the changes from the 26 to 25 fc are only minor minor changes, not massive big changes

like 0.1 for dwell etc

This is incorrect - I needed to make massive changes to get the RB26 powerfc to run my RB25. Using the handcontroller would have been useless.

Paul, you haven't tried this, so it might be a good idea that you stop leading people a stray with your "theories".

Received my PFC today.

Double checked all the loom to ensure nothing was there that shouldn't be. All is ok.

Disconnected the O2 sensor, Plugged the PFC in and its all working fine. :(

I have still yet to splice up the afm and with regards to swapping the injectors 4 & 6 around I will do that at the fuel rail, split open the loom and have it exit the loom at injector 5. Then both injector plugs 4 & 6 are able to reach to both injectors so an easy swap.

I'm hoping I'll have the afm splice and run the wire for the inlet air temp sensor done tomorrow and datalogit plugged in to sort its few issues and drive it home on the base map.

RB26 PFC is wired in and working 100% perfect.

I got the datalogit on to it and dropped in an rb25 airflow and map reference in there and my existing zirconia GTST type o2 sensor is doing its thing. The R33 GTR runs the newer faster Zirconia type o2 sensor where as the R32 GTR runs the older style so its important to select the r33 type from the menu item.

I didn't have time to see if it would run on the rb26 airflow curve and map reference. May give that a shot in the near future. :cheers:

So its all good.

No major drama's. Just a couple of things to look out for.

this has given me an idea. providing they physically fit, could I put twin (or even just 1) zirconia type 02 sensor into my 32 GTR, then have someone with datalogit skills fix it up so it will work properly with my RB26 and RB26 PFC?

because the genuine titania R32 GTR 02 sensors are $350 each and I don't know of any proper aftermarket replacement.

r34 gtt PowerFc's plug into series 1 Stagea's no problem.

need to alter some injector outputs (3 of them to be precise), and swap around the headlight and rear demister inputs

thanks to Beastien for that info. apparently the vvt hasnt been an issue

this has given me an idea. providing they physically fit, could I put twin (or even just 1) zirconia type 02 sensor into my 32 GTR, then have someone with datalogit skills fix it up so it will work properly with my RB26 and RB26 PFC?

because the genuine titania R32 GTR 02 sensors are $350 each and I don't know of any proper aftermarket replacement.

There's no need for the datalogit if you were to do this.

There's an option to select between R33 or R32 GTR type o2 sensors via the h/c.

The biggest difference is the wiring. The zirconia o2 sensor has slightly different pinouts so you would have to sort that side of it out. *Check out the circuit diagrams within the R33 and R32 GTR engine manuals*

I've been through every nook and cranny with regards to the circuit diagrams to ensure nothing will blow up. :D

BUT..... I believe you can grab R32 GTR NGK/NTK o2 sensors from a sponsor on this forum for a reasonable price. ~$283 for 2 o2 sensors. :S

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=135194

ok Sort of reasonable.. lol

r34 gtt PowerFc's plug into series 1 Stagea's no problem.

need to alter some injector outputs (3 of them to be precise), and swap around the headlight and rear demister inputs

thanks to Beastien for that info. apparently the vvt hasnt been an issue

Good stuff Tangles.. This is what you've done? Ditched the SAFC? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
    • Running rich in conditions where it shouldn't probably won't do great things for catalytic converter lifespan. I would fix that sooner than later.
    • Yes, important point. Watch the Motive videos with Herman thickness testing the bores and deck. You do not want to push the unlucky (thin) block as hard as you can push the average block.
×
×
  • Create New...