Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah the enkeis are nice. GTR track rims always seem to be TE37, LMGT4 or CE28s these days so I wanted something different for track.

definately keen to look at brakes. it's the current focus for the car. handling is fairly sorted, power is equal to driver talent (lol) and using good tyres always of course so i just need more work on brakes.

sidd, glad you like the car. it's been a few years toiling away but it now goes as good as it looks and is 100% reliable. just money spent in the right places is all.

anyway, i've dragged us way of topic again. but I'll add some value to this post and say:

for 100% street with some spirited driving I'd use the ultimates or endless SSS

for 90% street and a few track days with short sessions I'd go the SSS or RB74s if you must (lol).

for any more than 4 track days a year I really think you need 'street pads' and 'track pads' and preferably 2 sets of rotors on the go (so you can alternate). In that case I'd go the SSS or VN9500 on street and on track use ferrodo 3000s or the pagids I liked their feel too.

I got a fresh set of RB74's installed front and rear about 2 months ago (discs were also machined) and I have had nothing but squeal from them. I have taken the car back multiple times and had the pads and discs cleaned up and also the shims adjusted, even a special spray put on the discs. The noise was better for about a week but after the spray weared off the noise came back. The guy who installed my pads said that my car is the first he has installed RB74's on that has made noise. I'm going to put some of that CRC disc quiet red goo on and hopefully that sorts it. It is driving me insane and is also quite embarassing. I have also had a set of Ultimates and they were dreadful. They were very noisy and chewed into my rotors.

yep you want it to look like this:

pad backing - grease - shim 1 (full size) - grease - shim 2 (usually cut) - grease - pistons.

you can use any high temp grease like copper grease is good, or some people use moly grease (i don't) or you can shell out for the anti brake squeal stuff.

make sure you don't get grease all over the pad friction surface or the rotor, give the rotor a clean with some brake cleaner or carby cleaner before you put the rims back on.

don't go too nuts with it. you don't want any grease right near the edges, but a good coating focussing on areas where the piston touches the pad (or shim in this case).

haven't tried the SSM, but they i wouldn't hesitate to buy them for a road car. if the SSS were good i imagine the SSM are probably just a bit more street oriented.

So if you have a setup like this:

rotor -- pad -- shim1 -- shim2 -- caliper

Where does this CRC goo stuff go? between the pad and shim1, between shim1 and shim2, and between shim2 and caliper?

IIRC the most critical is caliper (actually the piston). I read somewhere that the noise is generated there. I think i did;

pad - goo - shim1 - some old grease that was still there - shim2 - goo - piston. The goo just ends up working like glue.

G'Day guys,

After reading through this thread I am looking to go the Endless SSS brake pads. I have new front rotors for my R32 GTR that are dimpled and slotted. Will be replacing the pads all around. Where can I pick up these pads from?

Is this a good choice guys? Only really street driving, with the occasional 'squirt'. Minimal, if any, track time.

Cheers!

Dan :pirate:

  • 1 month later...
Whats the damage for some front SSS pads?

i am about a month away from going fro endless sss pads all round and thinking of getting from nengun.com as not in rush(been told to be prepared to wait a while) and they are cheaper.

http://www.nengun.com/endless/super-street-s-sports

I got some endless pads in the rear (not to sure of exact model- got it free from my mechanic).. anyways they squeak hard-core at times..

Maybe they are high temp rated.. But im gonna use them on track day, and maybe just swap or sell them afterwards? n go back to standard nissan pads!! they do the job well for normal street driving..

Edited by siddr20

I've been running Nismo S-Tune pads for about a month & a half. Have been very solid on the track and street. Good cold performance. Sqeek a bit and the only time they have generate much brake dust is driving to and from DECA (long drive, highways speeds).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
    • Any idea where I can get genuine MAF apart from used ones? I can't find any only for GTRs and unfortunately that price is not in my budget 🤣 I might gap my plugs down and put my splitfires in, they were only in for a year or so before I started the rebuild 
×
×
  • Create New...