Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah the enkeis are nice. GTR track rims always seem to be TE37, LMGT4 or CE28s these days so I wanted something different for track.

definately keen to look at brakes. it's the current focus for the car. handling is fairly sorted, power is equal to driver talent (lol) and using good tyres always of course so i just need more work on brakes.

sidd, glad you like the car. it's been a few years toiling away but it now goes as good as it looks and is 100% reliable. just money spent in the right places is all.

anyway, i've dragged us way of topic again. but I'll add some value to this post and say:

for 100% street with some spirited driving I'd use the ultimates or endless SSS

for 90% street and a few track days with short sessions I'd go the SSS or RB74s if you must (lol).

for any more than 4 track days a year I really think you need 'street pads' and 'track pads' and preferably 2 sets of rotors on the go (so you can alternate). In that case I'd go the SSS or VN9500 on street and on track use ferrodo 3000s or the pagids I liked their feel too.

I got a fresh set of RB74's installed front and rear about 2 months ago (discs were also machined) and I have had nothing but squeal from them. I have taken the car back multiple times and had the pads and discs cleaned up and also the shims adjusted, even a special spray put on the discs. The noise was better for about a week but after the spray weared off the noise came back. The guy who installed my pads said that my car is the first he has installed RB74's on that has made noise. I'm going to put some of that CRC disc quiet red goo on and hopefully that sorts it. It is driving me insane and is also quite embarassing. I have also had a set of Ultimates and they were dreadful. They were very noisy and chewed into my rotors.

yep you want it to look like this:

pad backing - grease - shim 1 (full size) - grease - shim 2 (usually cut) - grease - pistons.

you can use any high temp grease like copper grease is good, or some people use moly grease (i don't) or you can shell out for the anti brake squeal stuff.

make sure you don't get grease all over the pad friction surface or the rotor, give the rotor a clean with some brake cleaner or carby cleaner before you put the rims back on.

don't go too nuts with it. you don't want any grease right near the edges, but a good coating focussing on areas where the piston touches the pad (or shim in this case).

haven't tried the SSM, but they i wouldn't hesitate to buy them for a road car. if the SSS were good i imagine the SSM are probably just a bit more street oriented.

So if you have a setup like this:

rotor -- pad -- shim1 -- shim2 -- caliper

Where does this CRC goo stuff go? between the pad and shim1, between shim1 and shim2, and between shim2 and caliper?

IIRC the most critical is caliper (actually the piston). I read somewhere that the noise is generated there. I think i did;

pad - goo - shim1 - some old grease that was still there - shim2 - goo - piston. The goo just ends up working like glue.

G'Day guys,

After reading through this thread I am looking to go the Endless SSS brake pads. I have new front rotors for my R32 GTR that are dimpled and slotted. Will be replacing the pads all around. Where can I pick up these pads from?

Is this a good choice guys? Only really street driving, with the occasional 'squirt'. Minimal, if any, track time.

Cheers!

Dan :pirate:

  • 1 month later...
Whats the damage for some front SSS pads?

i am about a month away from going fro endless sss pads all round and thinking of getting from nengun.com as not in rush(been told to be prepared to wait a while) and they are cheaper.

http://www.nengun.com/endless/super-street-s-sports

I got some endless pads in the rear (not to sure of exact model- got it free from my mechanic).. anyways they squeak hard-core at times..

Maybe they are high temp rated.. But im gonna use them on track day, and maybe just swap or sell them afterwards? n go back to standard nissan pads!! they do the job well for normal street driving..

Edited by siddr20

I've been running Nismo S-Tune pads for about a month & a half. Have been very solid on the track and street. Good cold performance. Sqeek a bit and the only time they have generate much brake dust is driving to and from DECA (long drive, highways speeds).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...