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Stiff Gear Shift 32gtr

shredder667
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shredder667 Rising Star

shredder667

Posted
Posted

hey since i've owned the car i've noticed it's bloody hard to throw the car from 2nd back into 1st. it's nice and smooth when the car at a complete standstill but if i'm doing 20k's or more i seriously have to force it in and it feels like it's catching on something that i have to push thru. any ideas? cheers.

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Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yes i have an idea don't shift back to first ever, unless you are at a complete standstill

really, whoever taught you to drive should have told you this. it's hard to put in as there are no synchros there. i'll say it again just to be sure. NEVER DOWNSHIFT TO FIRST. select first only from a complete standstill.

saliya Rising Star

saliya

Posted
Posted (edited)
yes i have an idea don't shift back to first ever, unless you are at a complete standstill

really, whoever taught you to drive should have told you this. it's hard to put in as there are no synchros there. i'll say it again just to be sure. NEVER DOWNSHIFT TO FIRST. select first only from a complete standstill.

Hey,

In an R32 GTR manual, CH-31 and 32 clearly shows a baulk ring (what we call a synchro) on first... in this

photo from my box rebuild, it's the rightmost brassy ring on the top LHS shaft (mainshaft).

post-14974-1175220199.jpg

No comment on the don't-shift-to-first - I've shifted to first in-motion in every hillclimb

I've ever done - but that of course isn't normal driving :huh::laugh: Beer Baron's right - in

normal driving, this shouldn't be a problem (you shouldn't shift to first while in motion).

As to the problem - if it's 'catching' it will be the 1st-second coupling sleeve catching

on the teeth of the first main gear. This is bad - you'll burr the teeth on the sleeve

or the gear, so don't do it.

If it's just hard to press it's because the baulk ring has to synchronise the speeds of the

gear and the shaft before the sleeve can engage...

Regards,

Saliya

Edited by saliya
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

my bad so it does have synchros for first. but it doesn't change the fact you shouldn't be downshifting to first. hillclimb is a different story. but i don't think that's what he's talking about.

Gav Mentor

Gav

Posted
Posted
hey since i've owned the car i've noticed it's bloody hard to throw the car from 2nd back into 1st. it's nice and smooth when the car at a complete standstill but if i'm doing 20k's or more i seriously have to force it in and it feels like it's catching on something that i have to push thru. any ideas? cheers.

Learn how to double declutch.

Generally not taught these days but this smooths down shifts remarkably and reduces wear on the gearbox (doesn't hurt on upshifts either ;) )

Being an old bastard and all, I had to learn this when driving trucks without syncros.

shredder667 Rising Star

shredder667

Posted
  • Author
Posted

and i how might i do this? just clutch, neutral, clutch, gear? if that's the case i don't really get how that helps? not questioning that it does, i just don't get how! i don't understand gearboxes at all. that picture means nothing to me. :)

saliya Rising Star

saliya

Posted
Posted
and i how might i do this? just clutch, neutral, clutch, gear? if that's the case i don't really get how that helps? not questioning that it does, i just don't get how! i don't understand gearboxes at all. that picture means nothing to me. :)

Hey,

depress clutch -> neutral -> release clutch -> rev match to new gear -> depress clutch -> new gear -> release clutch

The synchro matches the input side of the box (connected to the clutch) with the

output side of the box (connected to the back wheels) for the relevant gear before

the sleeve engages.

While in neutral you rev-match to the RPMs that the new gear will require (clutch must

be out - motor must be connected to gearbox). So you're reducing the work that the

synchro needs to do.

It also means that you need to know what RPMs your intended gear will need at your current road speed.

Regards,

Saliya

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
Hey,

depress clutch -> neutral -> release clutch -> rev match to new gear -> depress clutch -> new gear -> release clutch

The synchro matches the input side of the box (connected to the clutch) with the

output side of the box (connected to the back wheels) for the relevant gear before

the sleeve engages.

While in neutral you rev-match to the RPMs that the new gear will require (clutch must

be out - motor must be connected to gearbox). So you're reducing the work that the

synchro needs to do.

It also means that you need to know what RPMs your intended gear will need at your current road speed.

Regards,

Saliya

And thats so difficult, thats why they invented syncros :)

So really, just dont shift to first on the roll. You really shouldnt need to in a street car on the street. If your driving instructor/dad taught you that, then no offence they are just wrong. If your going that slow you should have to stop.

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