Jump to content
SAU Community

Ceramic Coating in WA?

slayer

By slayer,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

slayer Collaborator

slayer

Posted
Posted

HIya, does anyone know the details of the crowd in Wandi that do ceramic heat coatings?

GTST-VSpec has told me their name in Competition Coatings, but they arent in the whitepages so if anyone has their phone number it would be appreciated - trying to organise my dump pipe coating for tomorrow.

Ta

Conrad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16264-ceramic-coating-in-wa/
Share on other sites
VSPEC32 Proficient

VSPEC32

Posted
Posted

This is the contact for the Ceramic Coating place in Wandi. Have just sent off manifolds and turbine housings and will be sending off dump and front pipes very soon.

Lyndon

Competition Coatings

telephone: 0500 8999 88

address:

3/29 Blackboy Grove

Wandi WA 6167

Australia

Cheers

Brendan

VSPEC32 Proficient

VSPEC32

Posted
Posted

Just thought I'd post up for future honkeys looking for the info. Dunno what it looks like yet, think it only went off on Friday with a bunch of other stuff from C-Red. Turn around time is a minimum of 3 days and the very hi temp stuff (think it's branded their 'Platinum Coating') is being used on the stuff I mentioned - so only a black satin finish is available.

Cheers

Brendan

GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted

Yeah, that's the same stuff that we got done.

Adam, Yes he's thinking about doing a RWD conversion later. The owner, Ray and other are working on the car, it's easier to say "we" rather than go through the details, then people can ask me if they want more info.

Gav Mentor

Gav

Posted
Posted

Slightly off post but related, I plan to get the inlet manifold on my "R" coated.

The PFC allows for monitoring of the air inlet temp and this suffers badly from heat soak when not moving. It takes a long time for the temps to drop again once you start moving. I confirmed by finding the manifold very hot to the touch (estimate ~ 70 C) when the air inlet temp temp is showing around 50 C.

The intercooler outlet pipe actually stays very near ambient temperature (from constant checking by touch) with only minimal driving, however, indicating that the intercooler is working quite efficiently.

It would therefore seem that with a decent intercooler, controlling heat soak from the inlet manifold is just as important (or more so) than having a cold air intake box.

Comments?

VSPEC32 Proficient

VSPEC32

Posted
Posted

Hmmm, interesting thoughts. I suppose the other thing to look at would be where is the heat being generated from to make the plenum warm in the first place. Most I suggest, would come from the block, but certainly some woiuld come from the ambient hot air coming from the turbo side of things? I supppose the coating of the plenum would certainly help. Approximate cost would prolly be in the vicinity of say $60-90 (guestimate).

Cheers

Brendan

Gav Mentor

Gav

Posted
Posted

Yep

that's my point - almost certainly radiant heat from the block.

I'll probably try placing one of the Jaycar temp probes in different positions between the IC and the inlet manifold to confirm - Oh no, I'm starting to feel a bit like Julian Edgar now!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...