Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its alright i will get my mechanic friend to teach me a first time round.

Where do you guys learn all these stuff? Most of u work a a mechanic?

Anyway which Brake Fuild is best for track and street use? I check for website that Dot 5 does not absorb moisture when it get hot, this result in air pocket in the line. Is that true?

Just a few observations after reading this thread:-

1/ Opening the bleed valve is NOT necessary for retracting the pistons. If you keep topping up the Master Cylinder all the time as your pads wear then you will need to keep a watchful eye on it as you push the pistons back home or it will overflow. Buy a big syringe from a Vet or a Model Plane hobby shop and suck the excess out. Avoid topping up the Cylinder in the 1st place,,,,the level is something to keep a eye on as it tells you how your system is going ie pad wear and possible leaks. Pushing the pistons back is usually done with a specialist tool,,,the G-clamp one is also good,,,but you can cheat by using the old pad and a screwdriver as a pry bar between the pad and the disc. A bit Bodgie but it will work The G-Clamp idea sounds much better though. Just have a good think about it before you start doing anything.

2/ You don't have to worry about water absorbtion as long as you change the fluid regulally. Water gets into your brake system through reverse osmosis,,, it get through your rubber brake hoses over a long period of time. Thats why manufacturers recommend changing it every 12 months.

3/ Dot 5 brake fluid is a great choice,,, try Motul RBF600 or any of the other high quality brands. The main reason you'll boil the brake fluid on a race track is by using Street Pads. Go buy yourself a harder pad for the track,,,something like an EBC Red or the like. That way you'll stop brake pad fade which leads to keeping the fluid cooler and when you need that middle pedal on a great lap you'll have a nice firm one.

4/ When bleeding your system start at the left rear,,next the right rear and then the left front and finish on the right front. Only ever use a good quality ring spanner and please if the bleed valves spanner contact area look sus replace it. Many a time I have been guilty of not replacing it and many a time I have suffered,,,espcially on a Sunday arvo when nobodies open.

I'm starting to think I should write a article about doing brakes. Sorry for the rant but brakes and me have always been good buddies.

Neil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...