Jump to content
SAU Community

ECU Reset

400HP

By 400HP,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

yeah just do it once tho', for an adjustment to our crappy fuel.

Reseting it every time you do a mod doesn't do any favours, I can assure you. I tried doing mine after a series of mods and it farquared the AF ratio up top. Don't ask what I did to get it right again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1630-ecu-reset/#findComment-31439
Share on other sites
Scotty Boy Explorer

Scotty Boy

Posted
Posted

the process for hondas

drive the car around a bit.. driive to get the engine hot. approx 10kms

stop car, turn off then either disconnect the negative terminal or take out ecu fuses.

if take the fuse out, leave for about 15mins or taking the negative off the battery.

make sure u turn off all radio/aircon/tv/playstation/xbox/nintendo/microwave etc..

also stomp on the brake to drain more power when its all disconnect

then start the car do not put foot on accel.

leave to idle for until radiator fan switches on twice, about 8-10mins

then go for a spirited drive to help ecu out.

they say actually try and give steady power throughout the whole rev range.

it is a common trick for hondas and does actually make lots of difference in the running of the car.

i used to do it after services when i had a honda...........

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1630-ecu-reset/#findComment-31454
Share on other sites
Joe Community Regular

Joe

Posted
Posted

as far as i know it only worked on the r32 gtst as the r32 ecu is resets its self, not totally sure about r33 as i heard the r33 ecu is stubborn as hell :(

I wont see any power gains by doing so, it will just learn how you drive it.

unplug the battery, press on the breaks so it will drain all the power out of the car, i normally unplug the ecu just 2 be sure then

leave it for a while (5-10min) then plug everything back in & give the beat a little thrashing around the block.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1630-ecu-reset/#findComment-32584
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...