Jump to content
SAU Community

Exhaust Temp Light Stuck On


Recommended Posts

hey guys i have a r32 gtr and the exhaust temp warning light on the dash keeps coming on

and staying on for a while, if i take it over 3 grand when it's on the car misses and has poor performance, but when it turns off the car goes fine, can anyone help me please

Hey there,

I think you'll find that sensor in the cat temp sensor is only hooked up to the dash light, its not fed into any system meaning it being on or off would have no impact on the engines running.

I think somethings creating the heat in the cat, like over fueling, which will turn the light on,

Maybe the hot, melted cat is causing the missing.

Maybe check the ECU for error codes.

Cheers

Edited by GeeTR
Hey there,

I think you'll find that sensor in the cat is only hooked up to the dash light, its not fed into any system meaning it being on or off would have no impact on the engines running.

I think somethings creating the heat in the cat, like over fueling, which turns the light on, and is creating the illusion that the lights is meaning the ECU is cutting or what ever.

Making the hot, melted cat is causing the missing.

Maybe check the ECU for error codes.

Cheers

If for any reason the cat collapses you chokes up somehow and starts to restrict flow(majorly), then in theory the cat should heat up and the temp sensor would pick this up yes?

Dont exhaust temps increase when a car is running leaner rather than richer?

So get ur AFR checked out on a dyno. My cat temp light began flashing when i started running Boost98 petrol, put it on the dyno and the AFRs were 13.5:1

  • 1 month later...
  • 15 years later...

hi there im from Brunei ,think i have the same problem like yrs, 1st ignition on without starting the car ,the exhaust light flashing then i turn off and 2nd ignition it wont come up the light .BTW what dodgy wire that u mention need to check for .

here are some video .

 

On 5/30/2022 at 1:07 AM, BY55 said:

hi there im from Brunei ,think i have the same problem like yrs, 1st ignition on without starting the car ,the exhaust light flashing then i turn off and 2nd ignition it wont come up the light .BTW what dodgy wire that u mention need to check for .

here are some video .

Check the Consult connector, make sure the connector is in good shape. Then verify that there are no active codes on the ECU. The exhaust gas overtemp lamp is also a check engine light: https://www.gtrusablog.com/2016/04/how-to-read-check-engine-or-cat.html

hi there im from Brunei ,think i have the same problem like yrs, 1st ignition on without starting the car ,the exhaust light flashing then i turn off and 2nd ignition it wont come up the light .BTW what dodgy wire that u mention need to check for .

here are some video .

if no code ,u mean the oxygen sensor ?

 

No, what he meant was.....the EGOT lamp is also the check engine light, so it will indicate either that the cat is too hot, or that the ECU is chucking a code. You need to check whether or not the ECU is chucking a code at you. That's what he meant by "verify that there are no active codes".

What he really should have said was "check to see if there are any codes".

So, check to see what your ECU is telling you. It is far far more likely that you have an ECU/sensor problem than that you actually have overtemperature exhaust**.

**Although I am willing to concede that a thoroughly blocked injector, or similar problem, could cause sufficiently lean conditions to make hot gas. Usually though, there are other more horrible symptoms of such a problem than just the cat light coming on.

On 5/30/2022 at 3:12 AM, BY55 said:

hi there im from Brunei ,think i have the same problem like yrs, 1st ignition on without starting the car ,the exhaust light flashing then i turn off and 2nd ignition it wont come up the light .BTW what dodgy wire that u mention need to check for .

here are some video .

if no code ,u mean the oxygen sensor ?

 

In the future I recommend posting your questions in the thread instead of sending them to me as a PM, just in case someone else has your problem in the future. Two things stand out to me from what you've sent me:

1. Someone appears to have messed with the wiring on the car. So in that regard you're on your own, I can't trace wires remotely and figure out what's been done to your car.

2. I recommend reading through what I linked to figure out what the ECU error code is and report back. That may give you some clue as to what's wrong.

On 6/8/2022 at 12:19 AM, BY55 said:

Just did the diagnosis this morning with disconnected the exhaust temp sensor. 1st it show 55 then 12 . What that mean .

Error code 12 is MAF: https://www.importavehicle.com/blog/check-engine-light-diagnostic-trouble-codes-for-1989-to-1994-nissan-skyline-gt-r

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...