Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I was looking at fitting a split one, and a reputable brisbane exhaust place quoted me $400 fitted for a custom mild steel split front/dump. This sounds like an ok price (correct me if im wrong).

Obviously its a no branded one, but these guys have been in the busines for ages so ud think theyd know what their doing. Anything i should be wary off and look out for?

Also i may replace the cat at the same time. what should i look for in a cat apart from bein 3" and high flow?

THe other option is to get front dump pipe from the forums (i.e justjap ones for $250 and fit them).

Edited by Andyn
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163008-front-dump-pipe-installation/
Share on other sites

You could get the just jap one and fit it yourself. Cheaper and plus it'll be stainless.

Bit of a pig to fit but definitely do-able. Get a mate to give you a hand and it'll be much easier.

A lot of money can be wasted in paying for labour. Fit most things yourself and you'll save heaps of money.

stainless doesnt really bother me to be honest. think mild steel will last for quite some time.

Yeh since i have the factory gear on there some of the bolts can be a bitch to get off, if not snap. So I dont mind paying the extra to get it fitted.

I guess my question is whether all split dump pipes are equal, and whether there is any proof that the bos one for example which is closer to 500 bucks, has any noticable difference. Anything i should mentioned when they make the front/dump. I read somewhere that the join should be as far back as possible to minimise turbulence of air from the two pipes.

My 32 is pretty standrd with simple bolt ons and running 0.75 boost.

Yeah me too. I got a mild steel exhaust.

As far as differences go, you'd have to run back to back dyno runs with the different pipes. I don't think anyones done that.

As you said also, the join should be as far back possible to avoid turbulence. Make it that way to be safe.

Also make sure they make an allowance for the O2 sensor, but they should know that.

It'll be a good idea to go for a 3" cat too if you don't have one.

I have the Batmbl Group Buy split dump on the R33GTST, works fine. I recommend wrapping with Thermo Wrap, it makes a noticeable difference to the under bonnet heat. I used to use Magic cats, but I tried a Catco (also Batmbl Group Buy) on the Stagea and it works well.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=152367&hl

:pirate: cheers :ph34r:

i bought my dump/split pipe 2 weeks ago and will be attempting to put it on this week the only thing I am concerned about is if i snap a bolt off the back of the turbo. Would I have to then unbolt the turbo and get a new bolt or are the welded into the turbo??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A work around is to install the R35 card style AFM/MAF on the cold side of the intercooler piping and the BOV on the hot side piping. Works well, also you can combat the revs dropping by adding a bit more ignition timing on the idle ignition timing table to slow the rate of RPM drop.
    • Understood. If you dont have a ridiculous limit,  Tune, T's and P's are in check, and arent bashing it all the time and doing the due deligence for maintenance(inc oil analysis) then its pretty safe. 100% agree, let your right food control it to some extent.
    • So these external kits with the machined block for remote solenoid mount will only work on a NEO head and RB30 or RB26 bottom end   For an R33 head on a 26 bottom end the remote vct kit is to resolve RB26 manifold adaptor plates etc  IF you try to use the remote VCT on an RB30 or RB26 bottom end with an R33 head then  you can starve the cam journal??? I have one of these kits from bits I had years ago before plans changed  I don't understand how that tracks with this video   https://youtu.be/RuPiI22Mplk?feature=shared   This looks like I can run the v termite vct kit to feed the VCT on an R33 head on an RB26 bottom end?!?!?   Lol.... don't v have these problems on RB20s
    • Yeah i know that MAF is no no for this type of BoV. The engine has no BoV and "hose/pipes" ..it was all deleted (or probably it was not even on the engine when it was bought  ) It does that "sutututu" noise which i kinda do not want(atmospheric is better IMO...but standalone ECU)  What are the cons of running without blow off on stock RB25DET NEO. It running 5-7 PSI max (it has boost controller)   EDIT: and can Nistune be "tuned" to know there is no BoV to i dont know "know" and be better for a car? I read so many info about no BoV. One guy saying it is bad and hurting the turbo/engine/car and other that it does not...  
    • Yeah. OK. I'll say the same thing I say to everyone. You do not have to use 100% throttle all the time.
×
×
  • Create New...