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parcel shelf..... how much???? also interior, rear side-window trim, and door trim.... how much???? what condition are these in??? do you still have brake rotors???? how much???? feel free to pm me!!! :wave: thanx

I am stripping a 1992 2 door R32 GTS-T, All parts available too many to list let me know what you are looking for and I will give you a price, and I can supply pictures.

R32 complete factory exhaust system for compliance $199.ono

For sale RB20DET with loom still in R32 shell, perfect for conversion only $900 ono

R32 seats front and rear $100.

R32 suspension factory $90.

R33 steering wheel $60.

Rear w/screen $100.

FMIC $60

Doors $90 each

Factory wheels $250.

boot trims $100 pair.

side skirts 1 requires repair $70.

headlights I have 2 sets normal $150 pair and projector $250 pair

front guards 2 pairs 1 set $140 black and one perfect grey set $240.

I have all parts needed to repair a front smashed R32 GTS-T, looking to sell as a package 2 headlights 2 indicators 2 guards , bonnet, front bar, nose cut $999.

instrument cluster $80 120,000kms and I have one with 30,000kms for $110.

+ many more parts please pm me.

Thank you.

interested in the r33 steering wheel, also would it fit on a r32 gtst?

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    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
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