Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guy

i have a r33 gts-t. Ive had it boosted previously with a valve and it was set to 12psi (with stock cooler)

After the FMIC went in, i figured id be able to just wack the boost controller back in and it would sit at 12 like old times...How ever it seemed to just be running stock boost...so i adjust and adjusted till i got it back to where i wanted it. So its now at 11-12~ish.

Is it normal it did this? cause i had to wind the boost controller HEAPS to get it back up to 11-12.

Is this due to the persure loss, or is my boost controller stuffed or something?

No real dramas, just dont wanna hit boost then see my guage to 7+ 7+ 7+ 7+ if it is my controller lol

Thanks in advanced

do you have an aftermarket gauge?? (guessing you do) if you dont then the 7+ on the factory gauge is more like 1 bar. after my FMIC installed the other week my max boost went up 1 or 2 psi to around 12, so i wound it back down to 10. you got the opposite prob to me..

Edited by jake33
do you have an aftermarket gauge?? (guessing you do) if you dont then the 7+ on the factory gauge is more like 1 bar. after my FMIC installed the other week my max boost went up 1 or 2 psi to around 12, so i wound it back down to 10. you got the opposite prob to me..

After thinking about it as i aim aimlesly bored at work (IT) LOL. i think i figured the problem ;) ill go home after work fix it...

I new there would be a difference after the FMIC, but i didnt think this much.

Cheers

I have just installed a fmic and found that my boost went up about 1-2psi but more so I found boost spike to be way more evident on a cooler night. Which in turn is either causing Rich and retard or missfires (fells like a miss to me but not sure what rich and retard feels like. Can someone explain?)

The above unpredictable boost issue could possibly be caused by my GFB manual bleed valve now getting a reading by being Tee'd into the BOV line. I intend to install my nipple in the I/C pipe very soon hoping this will decrease the cold night boost spiking effect somewhat.

All in all i did not touch the boost controller and boost did seem to rise slightly after the fmic installation.

RICOS - when you install a front mount , the boost becomes laggy because the air has a longer way to travel compared to the stock setup. i sugest you go and purchase an after marker boost gauge , to monitor your settings . and also psi is much easier to read .

yeah ellec boost controller is the only way to go. my greddy boost controller, bout 500 bucks, tells you max boost recorded after each throttle aplication ( boost spike). and the controller settings allow you to iorn out spikes easily, and you can flick back to stock boost too. oh and it also doubles as a digital boost guage

I have fixed my rich and retard issues by installing the nipple in the I/C piping before the t/b. no boost spikes only slightly and holds pretty steady MOST of the time. Previously was tee'd into the BOV line.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mainly being afraid of breaking something on something i've poured so much money into haha
    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
×
×
  • Create New...