Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i have some questions maybe someone could answer!

1- how do i check if i have a fuel pressure regulator?

2- how do i teel if my hicas is locked?

3- were do i get ecu chipped?

also i am putting rb25t onto my rb20det, to get close to 200rwkw should i get ecu chipped, fuel pressure regulator (if i dont already), cam gears?

also.... prices on chipped ecu, price on fuel pressure regulator , cam gears. and were to get cam gears at good price and were to get fuel pressure regulator.

cheers adrian...

Edited by rad33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163499-some-questions-and-help/
Share on other sites

after market fpr can be easily spotted. Sits on the end of the fuel rail usually..are u still running the std fuel pump? If so get that replaced before the FPR (which u wont need for a while yet.) Something like a Bosch 040

Hicas, just look under the rear of your car. It should have a steering rack bolted to the diff. If it does, look at the boot rubbers to see if they have been fiddled with. If they look new, it probably has brass shims under them, or look under the rear parcel shelf in the boot for a little black box wired to the hicas computer that says Tomei. Otherwise its std.

Ecu chipping..decide on how far u want to push the car in later mods. If u cant see yourself going any further get it chipped, but it will cost to remap the chip again later if u add say a larger turbo. A PFC is a good investment for full tuning the car regardless. Shaun does wonders with tuning them. Cam gears are ok, check the forums, or www.perfectrun.com.au

Edited by Bl4cK32

ok atm i have gtr fuel pump, cooler, e-boost, pod, will have rb25t on soon. then i want to go fuel pressure regulator, ecu chipped and re-mapped then up the boost... oh and bov after that! does anyone know a bov that flutters? i cant find any!!! as in like chi chi chi chi lol?

Who have you found that is able to chip & remap the RB25's ECU? In the long run it may be cheaper & as effective to get a piggyback or stand alone ECU.

:D BOV's don't make the flutter noise...I'm assuming you mean the off boost flutter noise?? that's compressor surge. You can either run no bov or put any adjustable aftermarket one & set it at the tightest valve setting.

ok atm i have gtr fuel pump, cooler, e-boost, pod, will have rb25t on soon. then i want to go fuel pressure regulator, ecu chipped and re-mapped then up the boost... oh and bov after that! does anyone know a bov that flutters? i cant find any!!! as in like chi chi chi chi lol?

You probably wont need to get a fpr as yet. I wouldnt trust a 2nd hand gtr pump either...

What are the future plans for the car in terms of power? I pfc is a real good investment. Speak to your tuner or shaun at least and he can put u on a good path

Dont bother with a bov, u will get defected. A pod filter if u must have a woosh sound.

i basically want to get 200-220rwkw! and maybe 12 months later get 250-300 but i really want 220!!! what do u think i should do? whats wrong with gtr fuel pumps? i now mine is very loud hahaha but yeh wat u think will get me to 200-220?

You'll need an adj. fpr for more than 190rwkwish. Depending on dyno.

Grab a nismo one from nengun or a trader on this site. Should see you through to 220-230rwkw.

GTR pumps are old.. BUt they can be good. Just throw a cheap Bosch 040 in it. More than enough. :)

I dont like GTR pumps personally because most of the time u are replacing the std pump because its old, and doesnt flow. I cant see the point of sticking a pump thats just as old on, only for a bit more flow. Id rather rely on a new 040.

At 220 u may be seeing the limits of the afm, so u might need a z32.

For those power goals (more so the future) u may need a pfc, and injectors.

I dont like GTR pumps personally because most of the time u are replacing the std pump because its old, and doesnt flow. I cant see the point of sticking a pump thats just as old on, only for a bit more flow. Id rather rely on a new 040.

At 220 u may be seeing the limits of the afm, so u might need a z32.

For those power goals (more so the future) u may need a pfc, and injectors.

yeppers.... i have a rb20det in my r31 and im gonna put a vg30ballbearing turbo on it, get a remap and run a z32 afm...

jeff from speed lab recon that should c me round 190+kws... i think from memory a remap by jeff is around the 500 mark but could be wrong..

i found my z32 afm from kansai, they were pretty helpful, also try the for sale section here and ns.com... hope that helps a little

thanks for all the help guys!! im gonna get the rb25t put on then adj fpr, z32, and bosch 040 and save for a pfc!

so were can i get cheap PFC, ADJ FPR, Z32 and BOSCH 040?

cheers

Edited by rad33

Most import wreckers should hav Z32 AFM on shelf. You might get lucky in the same respect with a PFC...........from what ive been told an RB25DET one can be used on an RB20 with a couple of wires changed around if you cant get an RB20 one. If you want an 040 new, most auto parts places sell em, second hand, shop around the forums FS sections

r 18inch rims legal for a r32? will it pass regency? also i noticed that my intercooler piping goes through the body just next to the pod filter! is this legal? regency booked for the 27th!!! 3 week wait!

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got the gearbox in and the front drive shafts.
    • Hi There I went through a rabbit hole of reading about Xenon headlights and the ADR regulations for having them installed. As people have been defected by running factory xenon I was researching in ways to make them compliant. Everyone always say needs to be self leveling and have washer installed, which I don't necessarily agree with. For this argument I'm using R34 as reference as I'm more aware on the construction of the headlight compared to the R33 Xenon, which may still be the exact same case.   For the self leveling clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles As you can see the bold text "these manually adjustable devices from driver seats" are fine to use. As Series 1 Xenon model headlights do have a 4 level adjuster on the right near the ignition (however not series 2) then these model are consider compliant in that argument.   For the Self Cleaning aspect of this argument clause taken from ADR 13 - Installation of Lighting and Light Signalling Devices on other than L-Group Vehicles Now i can understand the argument that Xenon will need a washer as they are over 2000 lumens, but I clicked on the 12 at the end of that sentence and it takes me to the end notes which states R34 for headlight lenses are plastic, not sure if PL is mark as I don't currently have my skyline to confirm that marking is there. But could you not technically get a lenses with the PL marking on it and then get away with the argument that you need a washer. I went through a quick read of the adr and might have missed something else that may cause them to be non-complaint.    But wouldn't these technically be complaint headlights   Would love to hear other people input on this and shed some light   Edit In regard to the the washer portion I might be mistaken ADR 45 (which I believe is Regulation NO.45) states 12 cd (candela) I dont understand that portion in regarding to calculating the candela if anyone can shed some light. Otherwise I guess throw in a washer for the headlight and you definitely comply.
    • Took it to all Japan day, flogged the hell out of it and took it all, am a very very happy man  don’t know how that ended up in Greg’s thread before
    • Hey Nismo, any chance in the world you still have these seats?
    • I'd say closer to OG GTX3582R, just smaller trim - so 59mm inducer/82mm exducer as opposed to 62/82 for the first gen GTX3582R. Yeah EFRs were boss, the EFR8474 is still an absolute beast and it perplexes me that people still go to things like Turbosmart/Garrett etc when the results people are getting with those are pretty unremarkable compared to what you could get with a turbo available well before those options came out.  DriftSquid (I think) "upgraded" from an EFR9174 to a Turbosmart turbo and promised a comparison video - and kinda shuffled awkwardly and did a bit of diversion from the fact that they didn't get any improvement going to the currently massively hyped brand of turbo from a turbo that was a bit of a frankenstein that had been well superceded in it's own range before the Turbosmart unit he put on there even came out. I suspect the EFR would outperform most Xonas for what a lot of less-insane RB owners would go for, in the 400-600kw range but the Xonas are looking hard to beat up to maybe in the mid 700kw range at this stage- basically where EFRs don't really reach, and before the Precision turbos take over.  What the Xonas do well in the "EFR range" is be easier to package etc, and work very well if a divided housing doesn't suit your application.  
×
×
  • Create New...