Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Just finished putting in and plumbing up new engine fresh rebuild ,now car will fire and run for about 2 to 5 seconds then stall ,Its getting fuel its fireing otherwise it wouldn't run for those couple seconds it just wont stay running just pulling of the fast idle now to check just looking for ant other idea's I might be missing as to cause of problem

Cheers Peter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163575-new-engine-wont-start-ideas/
Share on other sites

fill up the tank with a descent amount of fuel,

run the fuel pump in reverse by disconnecting the plug and running the wires to the opposite terminals, only do this for a couple seconds

return to normal

sounds like the filter in your fuel pump has picked up crap, and im guessing there isnt much in the tank right now anyway

Keeper

brand new fuel pump and fresh fuel already in anf brank new fuel filter high flow

Ken

Yes mate going of the dial whilst cranking undolted the line jsut to make sure fuel was getting through and turned it on filled orchie bottle in no time

Kinks

Yes mate plugged in no afm after market computer

Have you tried actually adjusting the fuel and timing settings in the computer.

Generally on a fresh motor, if it's been rebuilt with different injectors, cams etc, you'll need to fiddle with the tune to sustain it running.

Can you keep it running on the throttle at all?

MBS206

the set up was on the old engine nothing's been changed same cms,turbo manifold cam settings just been freshend up.wont run at throttle

dead32

when running is sounds smooth and quiet sounds good for that couple seconds,haltes e11v2 is the ecu needs a laptop to have a look for any errors and I dont have one atm

cheers Peter

rb26s13

I did think of that and checked no

OVL-747

I thought i might have done that but when I took the fuel line off b4 the reg it pumped out fuel like a presure hose

Are there any diagnostics you can do on the e11v2 that would help you out? Give a quick hit on what to look for.

Assuming you are using a MAF sensor make sure it is plumbed in.

Are you interfacing the E11v2 to the Nissan CAS or using a different trigger system? From Halwin open the Trigger Diagnostics page and make sure that your sensor counters are working OK.

For a motronic 60-2 with cam home the "Trigger Count at last Home" should alternate between 57 and 117 for each revolution. I don't know what the Nissan CAS value is since I don't use it.

If your trigger counters are NOT correct ECU can fire the engine on the correct cycle randomly but it will stall almost immediately after.

Wire the fuel pump up on 12V continous power (not from the ECU)

Or at least check what the connections on the ecu are doing (You'll need someone to help)

So the motor was pulled setup with ECU, Injectors, blah blah blah, and you're just rebuilt the bottom end?

What have you done about cams/head? Any porting, larger cams?

Zoltarc

I don't have a laptop to plug into the ecu to do those sort of annalace on the cpu atm just wanna try what I can b4 i get it towed to the tuner

MBS206

the cams are the same hks items the adjustable cam gear settings havn't been touched head was ported in old set up only differance is the 1mm oversized valves and I don't think thats enough to stop it from firing but thanks for the idea's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...