Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been looking a the Turbotech boost controller for $30 off Ebay and the Turbosmart Boost Tee for about $100, basically Im unsure which is the go as both these producers claim the same qualities such as quicker spool, better response at low rpm, etc, etc.

Is there any real reason to justify the $70 price difference between these 2, has anyone had experieneces with either or both, good things/bad things? The thread "I found a good cheap boost controller for $22" says alot about the Turbotech but is the Turbosmart just as good or any better?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163698-turbosmart-boost-tee-vs-turbtech/
Share on other sites

Yep turbosmart one sucks, mine lasted 6 months and now have a GFB which is better but is soon to be replaced with a Greddy Profec B spec 2.

If I wasn't going for a EBC, would have gone the Turbotech, heard such good reports about them.

Fair enough, and I have been hearing of some with the hole and without the hole? Have you guys found it to affect it at all??

Have a read of this thread. The last few pages has alot of discussion on hole vs no hole.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=73375

either way, this is by far the cheapest and most effective manual boost controller.

if your getting a fumble on boost , you will need to drill a 1.5 mm hole , to release air so it doesnt get stuck between the waistgate actuator. some of them had like a 08. mm hole , some dont . if your experience troubles make it bigger . also there is a possibility you will need to regap your spark plugs if your getting a missfire , and also check your coilpacks for cracks.

I had a turbotech controller and it was great, worked fine (I did get some boost dropping off over 6000rpm but I think that was due to the the restrictive front pipe and cat). The only reason I removed the turbotech controller is that I was given a ProfecB Spec2. The turbotech controller is being passed on to my mates apprentice :(

if your getting a fumble on boost , you will need to drill a 1.5 mm hole , to release air so it doesnt get stuck between the waistgate actuator. some of them had like a 08. mm hole , some dont . if your experience troubles make it bigger . also there is a possibility you will need to regap your spark plugs if your getting a missfire , and also check your coilpacks for cracks.

Yeh thats my only concern, can you show me on a pic or explain where the hole should go?

the hole goes directly opposite the barb not the barb opposite the screw end, the other one.. there is only one place you can drill that is a part of the body that is opposite the barb. I emailed the guy and asked that question. i drilled a 1mm and he said thats fine as long as it aint bigger than 1.5 mm as thats what he uses

mine was crappy after gear changes but fixed with that hole. as other have said best 30 bucks spent

I heard the new boost tee (not the old bleed tap style) is basically a rip off of the turbo tech ... so basically the same thing but probally better engineered.

I've also heard that the turbosmart product is much easier to adjust ... a step by step locking adjustment style ... rather than a screw and a lock nut which is hard to adjust ... once adjusted though they should both work equally well.

If it was me id buy the turbosmart one as you most probally are going to get better support and product

I heard the new boost tee (not the old bleed tap style) is basically a rip off of the turbo tech ... so basically the same thing but probally better engineered.

I've also heard that the turbosmart product is much easier to adjust ... a step by step locking adjustment style ... rather than a screw and a lock nut which is hard to adjust ... once adjusted though they should both work equally well.

If it was me id buy the turbosmart one as you most probally are going to get better support and product

Just buy the Turbotech one, or spend even more and get an EBC. No point spending $100 on a MBC when the Turbotech works so well. I had one up until recently and it worked perfectly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...