Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok well im new to skylines (owned an s14 and currently a 180) and someone is keen to swap an auto 4 door 34 gtt for my car and some money. Im a bit concerned about the km's. its a 1999 with 150,000 ks or there abouts but is pretty much stock and never run more than stock boost. should i be concerned about such high k's on a 34?

also how are the tiptronic autos. it has the paddle shift. anyone had any experiences with these?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163743-some-r34-questions/
Share on other sites

dont think klms would say much - if the car drives well, then thats all that matters. Mine supposedly had 73,000 when i bought it (96 R33). 7,300klms a year? I didnt trust it, but went on the overall feel of the car and how it drove. Its probably done more like 150,000klms.

If you are thinking of getting the 34, then get a full test done at a performance workshop - thats the only way you will know if the car is a dud or not.

No idea about the tiptronic though - but from my experience driving other cars with tiptronic - i find them to be a waste and they divert your concentration from driving the car to focusing on changing. Manual FTWl! :yes:

The R34 GTT tiptronic is ok, i have it in mine as it is a GTT sedan and only came in Auto from the factory.

I don't really use it as it is just as easy to get the auto gearbox to do what you want, occassionally is fun to use tiptronic mode but no real advantage except you can hold in gear a little longer but computer still overrides when the engine says its time to change gears.

The R34 GTT tiptronic is ok, i have it in mine as it is a GTT sedan and only came in Auto from the factory.

I don't really use it as it is just as easy to get the auto gearbox to do what you want, occassionally is fun to use tiptronic mode but no real advantage except you can hold in gear a little longer but computer still overrides when the engine says its time to change gears.

The computer will only override the tiptronic in order to keep the car from stalling. ie. if you're in 4th and go below say 50km/h it will drop back to 3rd to keep the revs up and if you slow down and stop it will eventually work its way back to 1st gear, but that is the ONLY time it will automatically change gears for you in tiptronic mode.

Any one who's driven a ford falcon with tiptronic knows that the car will still change gears as per normal even in tiptronic mode (it treats it like "power mode" apparently) yet in the R34, the tiptronic is more like manual mode where the car will not change out of the gear its in until you move the lever or if it needs to keep the car from stalling (as above).

I have a s2 stagea (same engine and tiptronic gearbox as r34) and dont use the tiptronic much. As lanky71 said, its just as easy to get the auto to do what you want by using your right foot - it will "learn" your shift patterns and adapt to your driving style a bit.

If you want to improve it - get a MV Automatics Shift Kit installed. Makes it a LOT better!! :laugh:

when i first got my car i used the tip tronic alot.... after a few weeks it easier to just leave it in auto mode.... but tip tronic is good to have..... sounds like a manual when u have an sports exhaust and gear down....

Edited by rgr34
r34 gtt sedan did come as manual from factory

but rare and now expensive

when i had a 34 auto id pretty much agree with everyone here , its ok , fun sometimes but not as good as a manual

Yes sorry, did some research after posting those comments and have found that they do come as manual but like you say rare as, also there is a GTX Turbo but it is just as rare and apparently a GT4 Sedan but even more rare, only even seen them in coupes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...