Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest Joeyz

Hi all, hope someone might be able to shed some light on this strange situation.

My engin light has been flickering on and of latley and only have noticed it when i am in 4th or 5th gear. Just cruising around and if i were to put my foot down to speed up it flickers.

Under hard acceleration through 1st to 5th gear it does not come on.

Has anbody had the same thing happen or can i get a few tip's on what to do?

Thanks in advanced.

post-35974-1176114434.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163821-r34-gtt-engin-light/
Share on other sites

the check engine light will come on to indicate knocking/pinging...its not good. The factory warning is set to come on at 60, which is pretty high...tuners like to keep it under 20 when tuning aftermarket ECU's

If its only happening in 4th or fifth gear, I'd say you're in the wrong gear to be accelerating that hard at the time, and putting too much load on the engine. if you were to drop back to 3rd and accelerate that hard, chances are you wouldn't get the knocking as it sounds like your car is fine the rest of the time....

Have you got an after market ECU and a tune? or still on the stock ECU?

Either way, its not good, so I wouldn't keep doing what you're doing...take it somewhere and get it checked out :stupid:

Guest Joeyz

I'v only had the car about 6 weeks and know that it has a APEXi Power FC.

You said that the car might be knocking, I can't hear any noises like that. I used to be a mechanic about 4 years ago and i'v heard what that should sound like and i can't?

I never worked on car's like this before or up untill i bought it.

I do have planed to take it to a dyno and get it tunned fairly soon though.

I'v only had the car about 6 weeks and know that it has a APEXi Power FC.

You said that the car might be knocking, I can't hear any noises like that. I used to be a mechanic about 4 years ago and i'v heard what that should sound like and i can't?

I never worked on car's like this before or up untill i bought it.

I do have planed to take it to a dyno and get it tunned fairly soon though.

you don't have the pfc hand controller do you? umm I seriously think there's a flaw in 34s pfc....I've heard ppls pfc sorta "detune itself" every few months, initially knocking at 5th then move down to 4th ..etc..

agree - definately knock

note ur load speed revs and gear to help the tuner out

i'd also consider in investing in the handcontroller (while they're still available)

feedback info on display very usefull (such as knock and water temp)

goodluck with it

Guest Joeyz
you don't have the pfc hand controller do you? umm I seriously think there's a flaw in 34s pfc....I've heard ppls pfc sorta "detune itself" every few months, initially knocking at 5th then move down to 4th ..etc..

Nah don't have one. Looks as though the previous owner didn't have one or sell it with the car. When you say hand controller is it conected to the PFC or not? Never seen one.

I suppose E-Bay or buy one brand new for the car?

I noticed this problem myself, except my engine light flashes very rapidly at the end of 1st and sometimes 2nd. Only saw it happen once or twice though, apparently the owner who I bought it off said his car would knock alot too. Is this a common R34 problem or could it be something on my end? As in the unit itself or the actual knock sensor?

Guest Joeyz

Hi all!

Thanks to all that replied about the engin light.

I was able to get my car dyno tuned today by Castle Hill Exhaust and he brought back the timming a bit so the light would not come on. All is good now! Yeah!

My car started at 178kw and the final outcome of the tune was 199.9kw at the rear wheels. Very Pleased.

Thanks again :P

post-35974-1176535432.jpg

Hi all!

Thanks to all that replied about the engin light.

I was able to get my car dyno tuned today by Castle Hill Exhaust and he brought back the timming a bit so the light would not come on. All is good now! Yeah!

My car started at 178kw and the final outcome of the tune was 199.9kw at the rear wheels. Very Pleased.

Thanks again :P

What sort of work has been done to the car to acheive those figures?

Hey mate...I wouldn't be running 15psi through the stock turbo...unless you want it to fail and have to replace it.....generally the safe limit for them is about 12psi...you might find you'll make more power on lower boost too....I make 200-205rwkw with the same mods on an R33 at 12psi...

Guest Joeyz
What sort of work has been done to the car to acheive those figures?

It has a front mount intercooler, 3inch exhaust all the way through, Apexi power FC computer, K & N Air filter, HKS Blow off valve.

When dyno'd on saturday, it was running at 1 bar and now it has been adjusted to 15psi.

Guest Joeyz
Hey mate...I wouldn't be running 15psi through the stock turbo...unless you want it to fail and have to replace it.....generally the safe limit for them is about 12psi...you might find you'll make more power on lower boost too....I make 200-205rwkw with the same mods on an R33 at 12psi...

I don't understand how i will make around the same power running less boost :thumbsup: can you tell me how that is?

I still am learning a lot about the car, only had it 6weeks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...