Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well I bought mine from nismo japan. can't remember exactly how much but it was nothing too bad. maybe $120 a pair. they look very good too.

if anyone really needs a set I can flog you mine and just buy some more, as my GTR isn't going anywhere for the next month and the rack bushes are just sitting in their packet.

natetune on IDA has them pretty cheap and they have comparison before/after pics of the extra lock they give.

and they come with full installation instructions. nathan was rather helpfull in answering any questiions that i had about them.

>>EXTRA STEERING LOCK TIE ROD SPACERS<<

before

4hkup75.jpg

after

3038rqv.jpg

Hi all. I finished installing my Drift Motorsport steering bushes on my 32. I do notice the difference - the car feels more consistent on sweeping bends for instance. I did have a little trouble fitting them initially as I did not think they would fit in well, but with the pressure of the stirrups pushing on them during installation everything falls in place. Instructions from Drift Motorsport are below for people's future reference. Note that fpr point 4 in the first section I had to buy a new longer bolt (M12 x 1.25) as I couldn't get the stock one any where near close enough to bite.

The two black bushes form a heart shape around the rack, on the drivers side. This shape is slightly at an angle, with the pointy end facing the front of the vehicle.

Here are some steps for installing the black bushes for the drivers side.

1) Remove top bracket and old bush

2) Lift up the rack and place bushes in line with the shape on the rack, with the pointy end facing the front of the car. Don't worry if there is a gap between the two bushes, as the gap will compress once the bracket is bolted down.

3) Place the bracket over the rack with the bushes

4) Place the smallest amount of thread required to hold the bracket in place, on the bolt facing towards the rear of the car (ie: not the bolt near the engine, the other one).

5) Use leverage and compress the bracket down so that the front bolt can grab the threads and tighten it up about 3-5 threads.

6) Tighten the bolts evenly and ensure that the bushes are aligned in their right positions.

Passengers side blue ring

1) Remove bracket and old bush

2) Clean surfaces with a rag

3) Place bush on the rack, with the split facing the rear end, where the two brackets separate

4) Tighten bracket evenly and to specification

5) If there is gap in the blue ring - don't worry as it is designed to have a gap there so that it can compress and clamp down. Factory bushes have this gap as well but it is harder to see as the bush and brackets are black.

Thanks, Ben.

  • 3 weeks later...

so if im correct, the drivers side bushes are two separate black half moon bushes,

and the passenger is a full moon with a gap so u can slide in on, with gap facing the rear of the car...

and there pretty much just clamp over...and bolted down...

correct??

and one more question..are all Nissan import cars the same?

cause i found these bushes on eBay, there pretty cheap..

but list it for 13 S14 S15 R32 R33 R34, so im guessing we all have the same rack then?

apart from the gtr's???

but i looked in the nismo catalogue ..and they should them having different p/n's and different prices too...

so yeah..

wat u guys reckon????

plus anyone heard of D-Project bushes ??is that the same as the Drift Motorsport bushes??

  • 7 months later...

Hello, the Drift Motorsport bushes are the D-Project ones that we sell on eBay as well as other forums as D-Project.

The black bushes can be a bit challenging to fit - because of the metal inlay-rubber setup. They have been designed to be compressed by the mounting strap so that the rack is locked in to place.

I will be doing a complete BLOG of our R32-R34 front 4 door RB30/26 drift car buildup over the next few months with all of the Suspension setups and products that we will be using.

You can find more information here on our D-Project ns.com thread: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...amp;pid=4645329

Pictures of the D-Project Bushes:

dprojectlogo.jpg

Steering%20Bushes%201-small.JPG

Steering%20Bushes%203-small.JPG

Total: $85 Delivered

We are currently working on a new CMS / Web Cart system where all installation instructions, info and so forth will be made publically available online.

Please PM your order via SAU or email.

To order simply PM us on SAU on the Drift Motorsport account.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...