Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI all.

My remote controls the alarm and the central locking of the car.

it does switch on and off the alarm without any difficulty when I press on the button. However, I cannot get the lock to unlock or lock.

in the past, it works as times, but recently, it doesn't work.

I can hear the sound inside the door trying to lock or unlock but it just doesn't work.

Is it the cause from the battery of the remote? or the solonoid inside the driver side door is faulty?

does anyone knows the problem?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164184-central-locking/
Share on other sites

sounds like the actuator.( thing that works the lock mech on the drivers side.) if you are mechanical tear the door down and check that the rod is still attached or that is hasnt moved.

if not take it to a shop and pay them for it. should be $100 by the time all is done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164184-central-locking/#findComment-3045669
Share on other sites

sounds like the actuator.( thing that works the lock mech on the drivers side.) if you are mechanical tear the door down and check that the rod is still attached or that is hasnt moved.

if not take it to a shop and pay them for it. should be $100 by the time all is done.

where do you think is a cheap place to do it? LOL.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164184-central-locking/#findComment-3046260
Share on other sites

sounds like the actuator.( thing that works the lock mech on the drivers side.) if you are mechanical tear the door down and check that the rod is still attached or that is hasnt moved.

if not take it to a shop and pay them for it. should be $100 by the time all is done.

so your saying that if its shifted slightly it may stop being able to move the system enough to unlock the door?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164184-central-locking/#findComment-3048280
Share on other sites

same thingy happened to my R33,

open up the drivers side door, check all the rods, there should be a 2 rods going into the actuator, then follow the rods until they seperate, should be this little screw thing holding both of them together, push the to rods hard together and tighten the screw, then try your alarm or central locking, after that it should work, thats what happened to mine

could be same situation as yours but just give it a try

John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164184-central-locking/#findComment-3048499
Share on other sites

same thingy happened to my R33,

open up the drivers side door, check all the rods, there should be a 2 rods going into the actuator, then follow the rods until they seperate, should be this little screw thing holding both of them together, push the to rods hard together and tighten the screw, then try your alarm or central locking, after that it should work, thats what happened to mine

could be same situation as yours but just give it a try

John

do you know how to to remove the driver side door?

i have no idea watsoever on how to go about removing the door.

thanks

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164184-central-locking/#findComment-3048660
Share on other sites

do you know how to to remove the driver side door?

i have no idea watsoever on how to go about removing the door.

thanks

Cheers.

Have a read of these two pages, it doesnt sound hard...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...601&hl=door

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...965&hl=door

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164184-central-locking/#findComment-3048737
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...