Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You take the unit out, then unscrew the front of it. the blubs are set in a little clip which unscrews and you can take it out. Good luck finding new blubs to fit, mine has been blanked out for a while now because I haven't been able to find new ones.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164574-led-light/#findComment-3050152
Share on other sites

i believe there was someone doing a group buy of different colour led's on the GB thread so maybe do a search and see if he has them yet? they were gonna be in white (std) blue amber and i think green? had a few pics of them installed in gtr dashes adn looked the goods, so might be worth sussing out?

cheers oxford

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164574-led-light/#findComment-3051152
Share on other sites

Jump on the Yahoo auctions. There are quite a few kits on there for them. Most of them seem to be blue though, but if thats not a drama (wouldn't be for me) have a look.

http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m39813386

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164574-led-light/#findComment-3051798
Share on other sites

I got bulbs for mine from dick smith in brisbane city, can't remember the part number but they were tiny 12v bulbs. I just took the ones out of the car into the shop and compared them. They came with wires on them already which i stripped to bare wire to put in the unit. That was about a year ago and they have been perfect ever since. If you do go ahead, the stock bulbs have little blue sleeves over them which are very fragile, try not to damage them when you take them off so you can re-use them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164574-led-light/#findComment-3053314
Share on other sites

I got bulbs for mine from dick smith in brisbane city, can't remember the part number but they were tiny 12v bulbs. I just took the ones out of the car into the shop and compared them. They came with wires on them already which i stripped to bare wire to put in the unit. That was about a year ago and they have been perfect ever since. If you do go ahead, the stock bulbs have little blue sleeves over them which are very fragile, try not to damage them when you take them off so you can re-use them.

cool!! why didnt i think about Dick smith!! BTW is it hard to take out the front panel of the climatic control?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164574-led-light/#findComment-3053891
Share on other sites

No Yudi, it's very easy...

Just use the guide for removing your head unit, and once you get the whole section which holds the stereo, guages and climate control panel out, it'll be easy from there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164574-led-light/#findComment-3059320
Share on other sites

No Yudi, it's very easy...

Just use the guide for removing your head unit, and once you get the whole section which holds the stereo, guages and climate control panel out, it'll be easy from there.

Ohh oK thanks Nick. That shouldnt be a problem since i change the headunit myself. THanks again. This Led light have been bugging me since i got the car almost 1yr now. Geez thats quick 1 year already. I dont think i will ever sell the car, it will be a ripper in abt 10yrs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164574-led-light/#findComment-3059386
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...