Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I quite like the HKS Hypermaxx II. Thye best car i have ever driven at teh track had them and Nismo adjustable arms. The car was brilliant to drive. Much better then my car.

On the street though it was a bit harsh...but on the track i quite liked it. And combined with that it seemed very quick and grippy as well

Yeah...spot on with what I would say.

My HMax2's are very noisy (compared to the standard)..but are simply awsome and provide much confidence when trying someting you 'saw in a cartoon' once!!

Mine are set to super-soft setting, but they still wreck your back!!! LOL! >_<

Regards,

Superspit.

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

can't take credit for finding that article - its stickied here in the suspension section. just seemed relevant to link into this thread.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=161623

, but to say its not a handling track I think is a little far fetched.

To go very fast around Sandown (I'm talking sub 1:20's), there is a lot of ripple strip jumping, a suspension with short travel and the inability to absorb bumps at speed will throw the car off the track.... I'd be inclined to say that you'd need less suspension at PI than you would at Sandown, coz of how smooth PI is.. Correct me if I'm wrong...

My car is much happier at Sandown then it is PI. I run out of suspension real quick at PI, but at Sandown the soft suspension allows me to brake deep at turn 1 with all the bumps and hammer ripple strips. LOL...at PI i lift the slightest amount and my car gets lost mid corner with no stability :) PI needs a lot more spring just becuse of the corner speeds/Gs. Sandown needs good shock/spring setup so you can handle the bumps in braking areas and ripples strips. So different thats all.

I now agree with JAGR33. Sandown my be a drag strip, bu ti think you need far better suspension as it is simply so bumpy. PI is smoother and with crappy suspension you are simply slow. With crappy suspension at Sandown...you may end up in a lot of strife if the car does not ride the bumps as me and RowdyR32 have founf out

Brisby - you could have $20K proflex suspension but if you jump on the brakes with oil on your rear tyres you're still going to crash into the wall.

Having said that Sandown does need some suspension that can ride bumps as has been said already. I'd add wakefield to that from my short experiences there. IMO the standard shocks are better at Sandown than a lot of the hard jap stuff. But the opposite is true at PI.

If I was going to have picked a suspension from the original list it would have been the Tein Flex. They seem by far the best of the "basic" Jap stuff that is available.

I dunno if anyone has mentioned it but have you had a look into these...?

http://www.silkroad-jp.com/section/a8.html

Im currently using TEINS (GTS4 - still the same) but have experienced a car using the Sections and i instantly fell inlove, deff swapping when the time comes!

I would however say that the ride was something that wouldn't be pleasant day in day out with normal driving.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...