Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay. just wanted to know how many kw's can the auto transmission handle? and all i have is a pwr trans cooler fitted. im having trouble finding someone in melbourne who can put a shift kit in it? does anyone know of any places where they know what there doing?

any help would be great, as im new to all this

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165262-automatic-transmission/
Share on other sites

ive seen standard autos take 250kw with no problems.

ive also seen built ones take 300kw+ with a shift kit and a clutch rebuild.

someone on here has run 315odd kw on the auto, look up either 4doorsleeper or dangerman4.

both have high powered auto's and lots of info in their threads.

Yeah Keas in Melbourne is the right place but I would recommend you get a valve body upgrade from MV Automatics in Adelaide then get any old auto transmission place to put it in for you. Mike is head and shoulders above anyone else in Aus when it comes to Jatco trans.

Also I strongly recommend you get a trans fluid temp gauge in your car. It's well worth knowing what temp it's running at and would have saved me a full rebuild if I had one before I killed mine.

..someone on here has run 315odd kw on the auto, look up either 4doorsleeper or dangerman4.

both have high powered auto's and lots of info in their threads.

Yeah it's dangerman4, his last dyno run was ~300rwkw which, also is believed to be the limit of the stock trans w/ upgraded valve body. Also, a complete rebuilt one from MV Automatics has seen around 500rwhp.
Yeah it's dangerman4, his last dyno run was ~300rwkw which, also is believed to be the limit of the stock trans w/ upgraded valve body. Also, a complete rebuilt one from MV Automatics has seen around 500rwhp.

so what have u done exactly to your auto tranny to get it to take 300kw?

With Just the MV Valve body it can hold up to 270rwkw, its a really good idea to get a Trans Cooler also to keep it from heating up too much. But shifts really nice well worth the money.

yeah i have a pwr trans cooler already put on. i like the sound of the mv shift kits but id rather get someone here in melbourne to do it in the shop. so the mv valve body is basically a stage 2 shift kit? is a mild or heavy when the gears change?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...