Jump to content
SAU Community

Help With R33 Plz, Cant Get Past 9.5psi!

black_gtst

By black_gtst,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

black_gtst Proficient

black_gtst

Posted
Posted

r33 gts-t, basic mods include front mount, hks intake gutted cat, 3.5 cat back, NEW turbosmart boost tee, factory turbo.

Got use of a dyno to try to sort ourt whats goin on with my car and after asking heaps of people questions bout it ill be f**ked if i know whats goin on!

Cant seem to boost past 9.5 psi(180rwkw)(mixtures were fine) on dyno wothout it feeling like its mis-fireing or cutting out. been told it definetly wont be fuel cut at that boost. have replaced plugs thiknikg that might be a prob, gapped to 0.7mm. have replaced all boost lines. anything below bout 9psi and car seems to run and pull fine

wondering if anyone might know whats goin on, been told bout a factory boost cut, if this might be so whats the cheapest way to get round it.

any help would be much appriciated asap due to sitting 15m from a dyno as we speak lol!!

cheers

brett

fEkuaR Experienced

fEkuaR

Posted
Posted

What are you just doing a power run with those mods? Have you got any tuning device? Safc or anything? If not then id say its your ecu mate and you cant do anything to get around that without an aftermarket ecu or piggy back

black_gtst Proficient

black_gtst

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Get a better boost controller would be a start and finish to all problems there, dont really aggree with a boost tee

yeah been told that for a start but i dont really understand how it could fix my problem, 10psi boost is 10psi boost as far as i know, correct me if im worng though.. also has anyone used one of the jaycar electronic boost controller kits?

as for the fuel cut, i have been told by more than one person that would know that it wont hit fuel cut till at least 12psi minimum... as i say im only going by what i have been told by other people.

black_gtst Proficient

black_gtst

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What are you just doing a power run with those mods? Have you got any tuning device? Safc or anything? If not then id say its your ecu mate and you cant do anything to get around that without an aftermarket ecu or piggy back

na got nothing tuning wise yet, just doin power runs to check boost and ratios. think it might be time for a computer lol..... anyone got any recomended computers? are PFC's still availiable anywhere? if not what are the new wolfs like? or e manage?

thanks for the help too...

Devils_Advocate21 Mentor

Devils_Advocate21

Posted
Posted

theres been numerous threads on coil packs, good way is to pull them out look for arcing marks on the steel casing, also at night if lift the bonnet in darkness you can look at the pretty sparkies arcing as well :closedeyes: go for pull them out and check for arcing its easy and takes sweet fa time to do. BTW is it missing under higher load? ie 4000 and up? It could be coils. GL with that

black_gtst Proficient

black_gtst

Posted
  • Author
Posted
theres been numerous threads on coil packs, good way is to pull them out look for arcing marks on the steel casing, also at night if lift the bonnet in darkness you can look at the pretty sparkies arcing as well :closedeyes: go for pull them out and check for arcing its easy and takes sweet fa time to do. BTW is it missing under higher load? ie 4000 and up? It could be coils. GL with that

yeah definetly on higher load, usually from 4-6 or so...

AdamsR33 Mentor

AdamsR33

Posted
Posted

Stock computer doesn't like anything over 10psi in a R33, some people have got upto 12 but most can't get past 10psi with factory ECU. I couldn't get past 10psi, now i have a PFC and have it tuned to run 10psi low and 13psi high. 196rwkw at 13psi, but tuner did say it went over 200rwkw but wasn't happy with knock levels and went with a safe tune, thats what i wanted.

black_gtst Proficient

black_gtst

Posted
  • Author
Posted
taking the plugs to .7 for relatively little boost increase is not good.

.8 at the MOST you should need for a basic setup.

Take the plugs back out to .8/.9 and check the coil packs

ended up being the coil packs, hairline cracks in em, now runnin at 13 and goin great!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Duncan
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Duncan · Posted

      Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...