Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all

i have just got hold of a r32 actuator to put onto my r33 the car is auto . my problem is instead of getting the 10 pound i was hoping to get it boosted straight to 15 pound . not a good thing on the stock turbo and the ecu didnt like it much either . any ideas why it did this? i then put the stock actuator back on and the boost went straight back to 7 pound and ran fine . im thinking im better of swapping or selling the r32 actuator for a bleed valve and sticking with the r33 one to get my 10 pound im not interested in running any more boost than this . i was hoping to achive this with the r32 one

cheers mid life crisis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165530-r32-actuator/
Share on other sites

the r33 auto actuator is actually less then 7, its 5psi the manual one is 7psi

i would run the r32 actuator get either stand alone ecu, get a fuel cut defender, safc, piggyback to remapped ecu

basically its pushing more air through which is activating the factory protection as theres too much airflow

also make sure you have the usual exhaust mods

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165530-r32-actuator/#findComment-3065646
Share on other sites

the r33 auto actuator is actually less then 7, its 5psi the manual one is 7psi

i would run the r32 actuator get either stand alone ecu, get a fuel cut defender, safc, piggyback to remapped ecu

basically its pushing more air through which is activating the factory protection as theres too much airflow

also make sure you have the usual exhaust mods

the car has a fmic / full exaust system 3 inch to cat and 3 1/2 inch from the cat back as its running the stock turbo i did not want to go over 10 pound at the moment it is def on 7 pound . i was under the impression the r32 actuator would give me 10 pound . however for some reason it goes straight to 15 so i put the original one back on and boost has gone back to 7 . i thought if i could get it to run 10 then i could have got away with not running the above equipment you have listed exept maybe the safc .but regardless 15 pound even with all the other stuff you have mentioned the standed turbo would not live long anyway .

so my question is now with the r33 actuator and a bleed valve would i be able to set the boost at 10 pound ? if so i will sell the or swap the r32 actuator to get a decent bleed valve i really donr want or need more than 10 pound the car is pretty quick as it is and runs clean i was just after a little more but if its going to cost a arm and a leg i will just leave the car as it is . cheers midlife crisis

ps what i dont understand is why the r32 one is hitting 15 pound and not 10 like there ment too? anyone after a r32 actuator that hits 15 pound well on my car anyways lol

Edited by mid life crisis
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165530-r32-actuator/#findComment-3065726
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...