Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
As Title R33 series 2..........whole car wrecking........

Complete engine with turbo 53klms on clock (SOLD)

headlights (sold).

SELLING EVERYTHING NOW, PM ME IF I HAVE FORGOTTEN TO ADD TO LIST

SERIES 2 STUFF:

s2 bonnet $400

manual s2 DIFF $400

Front seats $300

complete Back seat $200

Dash speedo / klm etc complete $200

Gaurds $140 each

Doors $200 each

boot lid $150

series 1 boot lid spoiler $75

Taillights $120

Complete airbag set/dash/ 2 airbags/sensors $1500

Complete 5 studd conversion / hubs / rotors / calipers all what u need ...$900

radiator support $200

front bar $300

SERIES 1 STUFF:

R33 series 1 Bar complete $200

R33 series 1 reinforcement $200

R33 series 1 bonnet $200

R33 series 1 headlights $400 pair

R33 front bar blinkers $100 pair (will separate if needed).

Thats all i can think off at moment.

IF NOT ON THE LIST ABOVE LET ME KNOW WHAT U NEED AS CAR IS STILL MOSTLY COMPLETE.

post here or PM me / If u want let pics let us know and i will email them or post here later.

SYDNEY. but willing post / courier.

Trying to send PM but your inbox is full.

Do you still have the box?

Please PM reply

Hey mate would you separate parts on the door?? I'm after the power window controls on the drivers side @ the centre dash surrounding.

Trying to send PM but your inbox is full.

Do you still have the box?

Please PM reply

Hey mate im after a left hand side black splash guard where it sites infront of the wheel and behind the stock little intercooler and it has air vents.., theres 2 peices... 1 underneath and 1 to cover near the wheel.. i duno the name... i gota pic here if you got it, PM me .

dsc00726yv9.th.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 2 years later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...