Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

evening all,

today i just finished of a custom bracket holder for my gauges (ill post pics soon), so ive relocated my boost gauge and installed an autometre air/fuel ratio gauge. Now both gauges have all lights working, but 1 only have one wire which im not sure on connecting..which wire do i splice into on the oxygen sensor to get the readings.

its an r33 gtst, and the oxygen sensor has 1x black wire and 2x white wires...ive narrowed it down to the 2 white wires but which one ? if any could help it would me much appreciated, i just dont wanna have to wait a week to get it done by a mate.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165647-installing-air-fuel-ratio-gauge/
Share on other sites

its there simply for the wank factor of having gauges lined up, and theres no point having it sitting there and not working , so i wanna wire it up.

ive just had a look at the wiring diagrams and there two white ones look like heater wires and the single wire (being black) must be the signal wire.

i'll wire them up tonight then and post up the pics :)

As far as it reading your afr's they really are quite slow, due to the narrow band sensor. The only useful things I found it good for is reading afr's on a constant throttle position eg. WOT, cruising, part constant throttle. And it will tell you if your O2 sensor dies.

Mine died, I wouldn't have known if it wasn't for the afr gauge giving me some really wacked out figures.

Replaced the O2 sensor and made a world of difference to how the car ran.

well the way i see it , is if the sensor dies i will at least know..better then ahving a monster tacho when i already have a normal tacho or an oil presure gauge when i have one on the dash..but then again i have a bosot gauge and one on the dash hehe.

  • 1 month later...

Here are some crappy pics i took, but im sure u get the idea on the bracket i made up, and its all under the dash lines making it legal!!!

also it mounts under the dash surround and screws into the same screws as the climate control and head unit, so it comes in and out within minutes

post-16268-1180958164_thumb.jpg

post-16268-1180958177_thumb.jpg

post-16268-1180958200_thumb.jpg

the setup isnt for the wank factor, its to stops defects and cops saying that its illegal to have them on the a piller or above the dash lines.

visablity is 100% , with the autometer gauges u can move the bracket up and down, so gauges are on an angle to face the driver..ill take a pic late today from the drivers seat to show what its like

well the way i see it , is if the sensor dies i will at least know..better then ahving a monster tacho when i already have a normal tacho or an oil presure gauge when i have one on the dash..but then again i have a bosot gauge and one on the dash hehe.

actually a monster tacho has more purpose than this afr gauge. on drag cars etc you need a very resposive tacho and shift light, and peak hold is needed too.

and oil pressure gauge is FAR more usefull than either of the above. the factory gauge is purposely built to be ridiculously slow (so as not to alarm drivers) and it's accuracy is also questionable. an aftermarket one offers faster response, accurate readings and memory function all of which could save your engine.

the only thing a narrow band AFR gauge will save you is carrying around the hundred bucks you would have had, had you not bought a useless gauge...

no offence mate, but how the hell do you tune a fuel pressure gauge with a narrow band o2 sensor and gauge? a fuel pressure gauge sets fuel pressure and hence itself is set-up with a fuel pressure gauge (funny that). as for tuning your safc with it. lol. i'd like to see that.

i can see where the blokes coming from because if your doing a home tune u can use the a/f gauge to see how lean/rich the cars running and adjust the safc accordingly.

anywho i have no real reason for having the gauge for any legit purpose apart from the cool factor of gauges hehehe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...