Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

just letting ya know, that this turbo is on its way and going on my car soonish.

Along with Tomei 1.5mm Head Gasket and Arp Head Studs

Tomei Poncams

I know its going to be laggy, but it sure is going to be fun when it hits full boost.

I chose this turbo as it was cheap and have heard a number of ppl whacking out some good figures.

I have at the moment on the car:

PFC, AVCR, FMIC, Nismo FPR, 555cc Inj, Z32 AFM, Split custom dump to car for the gt3540.

3" Exhaust(removed 2nd muffler) Hiflow Cat.

Without getting into internal engine work, would there be anything else that i could consider to put on, that will help to make the car reliable, stronger

and better to drive (Less Lag)??

The gt3540 turbo is off the XR6T and has the .84 rear housing. I did ring GCG and ya can swap it for a .63 housing but the .63 housing costs 750. And im like noooo thanks. So i will see how this goes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165673-gt3540r-iw-on-its-way-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey guys

just letting ya know, that this turbo is on its way and going on my car soonish.

Along with Tomei 1.5mm Head Gasket and Arp Head Studs

Tomei Poncams

I know its going to be laggy, but it sure is going to be fun when it hits full boost.

I chose this turbo as it was cheap and have heard a number of ppl whacking out some good figures.

I have at the moment on the car:

PFC, AVCR, FMIC, Nismo FPR, 555cc Inj, Z32 AFM, Split custom dump to car for the gt3540.

3" Exhaust(removed 2nd muffler) Hiflow Cat.

Without getting into internal engine work, would there be anything else that i could consider to put on, that will help to make the car reliable, stronger

and better to drive (Less Lag)??

The gt3540 turbo is off the XR6T and has the .84 rear housing. I did ring GCG and ya can swap it for a .63 housing but the .63 housing costs 750. And im like noooo thanks. So i will see how this goes.

I thought all the XR6 Turbos that come on those fords were the 1.06 exh housing..? bigger exh for the 4ltr motor or something..who knows should be fun wen it comes on though

yeah i thought that the xr6t were 1.06, but yeah who knows could of been swapped. unsure what happened.

just hope it doesnt do anything stupid. i know i shouldnt be asking this

but i have seen alot of ppl making over 300rwkws with these, with just cams and fuel mods and ECU etc.

What would be a suitable boost pressure to run through it and still be safe, and safe for the engine. (whats the limit)

anyway as it has been cleared up there that XR6T have a 1.06 rear housing.

would there be any other mods to look into to help with lag, and car being more streetable.

also in previous post what boost to put through the turbo?????

would there be any other mods to look into to help with lag, and car being more streetable.

It's all about cubic capacity. Being down on swept volume by 1.5 litres compared to the Ford means it will require extra rpm, but it will also take a lot more rpm before it runs out of puff. Changed final drive (diff) ratio may provide a fix.

The other would be to use a 3 litre bottom end.

Then there is the option of laughing gas :laughing-smiley-014:

Overall, it's like trying to wear size 12 boots when you've got size 10 feet. Not as good as it could be, and it won't feel nice until it's changed for something with a better fit. Oversized turbine housing for an application will result in lazy response.

The boost question is relative to how much power you want to make. What is your target?

Edited by Dale FZ1

Dangerman4 runs a GT35r .7 comp .82 IW rear BUT he runs an tough Auto which makes a huge difference to spool.

GCG do charge quite a bit for the IW housings. I was quoted $800!!!

Bill at ATS in Adelaide wants $500 for the IW housing and will give you $100 for the old XR6T 1.06 IW which brings it down to $400.

The .5 comp cover will help improve response/spool in the lower gears as well as improve the mid range once its on boost.

A mate of mine is swapping out his GT35r .7 for the .5 on his RB30det as to increase mid range (make it a little more savage as it comes on boost) and spool in the lower gears.

Shall be interesting if the theory of it all pans out in real life. The blokes over on xr6t forums state when swapping up to the .7 they loose the low/mid range shove but it has a little more top end (when pushing over 340rwkw).

well, pretty much i was looking at as much as i can get without affecting reliability too much.

is it a big job converting the bottom end with the 3L, cause i know ya can pick them up cheap as chips, but just fitment and etc.

might looking into it later on.

but back to the power question if i get 300-350rwkw i'll be happy, but making sure its done safely. if thats possible.

what i will do is see if i like the way it goes firstly, if i dont like it i will speak to ATS and get the smaller housing.

if then i still dont like it, or get bored, i will look into swapping the bottom end with the 3L.

Any more info is much appreciated, should be on the road before june.

Thanks

well, pretty much i was looking at as much as i can get without affecting reliability too much.

is it a big job converting the bottom end with the 3L, cause i know ya can pick them up cheap as chips, but just fitment and etc.

might looking into it later on.

but back to the power question if i get 300-350rwkw i'll be happy, but making sure its done safely. if thats possible.

what i will do is see if i like the way it goes firstly, if i dont like it i will speak to ATS and get the smaller housing.

if then i still dont like it, or get bored, i will look into swapping the bottom end with the 3L.

Any more info is much appreciated, should be on the road before june.

Thanks

Reliability wise...

300-350 = BOOM.........

If you have a 100+mm FMIC and a nice exhaust manifold and even a plenum then i'd run 18 psi and around 22 / 23 degrees ignition advance will see you to 300kws

if you dont have a nice I/C, manifold etc then you may need 22 - 25 psi and 17 - 19 degrees ignintion advance to make 300kws

time will tell as all engines are different but that gives you something to aim at.

standard cams i made 317rwks but that was up near 26-27 psi with 18 degrees ignition.

But running a auto sucks some power so your outcome may differ.

cheers

Darren

you wouldnt happen to know what the snout size of the turbo is on a 0.50 ar compressor cover.

Havent got the turbo yet, waiting for it in the post and want to buy all the silicon hoses and shit for it.

3 inch

you wouldnt happen to know what the snout size of the turbo is on a 0.50 ar compressor cover.

Havent got the turbo yet, waiting for it in the post and want to buy all the silicon hoses and shit for it.

With regards to silicon hoses.

I bought all my stuff from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/

Absolutely stoked with the quality and service. Very quick postage from the US. Took 5 days in total.

I bought all mine in black

4" Joiner (turbo to turbo pipe)

4" to 3" reducer (afm to turbo pipe)

2 x 2.5" joiners

90degree 2.5" to 2" reducer elbow

All up inc postage it cost me $100 AUD. Which is cheaper than I could have obtained those parts here in AUS.

It was a real pain in the arse to get all black from a local company. Some had one bit another had the other.. Real pain in the arse not to mention expensive when you factor in multiple postage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...