Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Err I am talking about intercoolers what did you think i mean.

Well i am thinking of going to a FMIC but i dont really want a huge massive thing. I am hoping to get a thin type of cooler prob round 50mm thick if i can find it. ie something like 600x300x50. The reason being is that i dont really want to hack at my front bumper to get one in as its a fairly unique bumper i think. Well i havent seen any other skylines around with the same type plus its a factory option plastic type.

I had a look in there and i recon a thiner type might be the go. It would how ever have to be on a slight lean forward (top leaning towards fron of car) to fit nicely.

So well prob getting bit off track but i dont feel that i need the normal 76mm thick types cos i dont intend on going nuts with the power. only few things in mind such as safc, dump, k&n air filter, boost controller (prob 10psi max).

I already got cat back 3" and modded ecu.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165713-is-bigger-reallly-better/
Share on other sites

bigger is deffinately not better. The perfect intercooler is matched to the car considering the size of the turbo and the power the car is making. A big intercooler will only cause lag... Its similiar to having a 800hp turbo on a car making 300rwhp. All you have achieved is unneccessay lag and undrivability. Similiar to that effect with intercoolers. There is no point in having a intercooler designed to flow and cool for a 1000hp engine when you are only going to run 200rwkw. It will just creates lag.

I put went back to my arc sidemount after driving my car with a just jap cooler because i was unhappy with the difference in responce. It was to big for my application.

bigger is deffinately not better. The perfect intercooler is matched to the car considering the size of the turbo and the power the car is making. A big intercooler will only cause lag... Its similiar to having a 800hp turbo on a car making 300rwhp. All you have achieved is unneccessay lag and undrivability. Similiar to that effect with intercoolers. There is no point in having a intercooler designed to flow and cool for a 1000hp engine when you are only going to run 200rwkw. It will just creates lag.

I put went back to my arc sidemount after driving my car with a just jap cooler because i was unhappy with the difference in responce. It was to big for my application.

Interesting.... I went from a r34 smic to just jap fmic and my response improved 10 fold (exaggeration). Weird.

Interesting.... I went from a r34 smic to just jap fmic and my response improved 10 fold (exaggeration). Weird.

Not having a go but that isnt really possible i feel that the improvement you were thinking you felt was in your head. Unless ofcourse the intercooler was a retriction to the power you were making.

Look at it like this, with the sidemount the volume that has to be filled before making boost is very small. The standard return pipes and the intercooler itself. Then compare that to all the piping and the 600x300 intercooler that needs to be filled before you will achieve boost after installing a front mount intercooler. Low down response will deffinately suffer as a result. It may not be a huge decrease in response but there will deffinately be a decrease.

Not having a go but that isnt really possible i feel that the improvement you were thinking you felt was in your head. Unless ofcourse the intercooler was a retriction to the power you were making.

Look at it like this, with the sidemount the volume that has to be filled before making boost is very small. The standard return pipes and the intercooler itself. Then compare that to all the piping and the 600x300 intercooler that needs to be filled before you will achieve boost after installing a front mount intercooler. Low down response will deffinately suffer as a result. It may not be a huge decrease in response but there will deffinately be a decrease.

Either way, I'm happy the way it turned out. For me it was a change for the better.

you're probably actually better with a smaller surface area, yet fatter..

I've got a 450x300x75 on mine, one of the reasons is I just didn't feel the need for a massive one unless I was chasing 300rwkw+ and I wanted as much response as possible .. does the trick fine

it would make his car run better if the smic was to small causing it to not work efficiently, then going fmic it was actualy doing the job, hence it improved.

Which is why i said unless the sidemount was a restriction. For this to be the case seeming he was using a r34 sidemount he would have had to be in the facinity of 200+rwkw. But before this intercooler would become a restriction you would be experiencing detonation and heatsoak once you tried to push it past its capabilities. So i think it would be unlikely that it was causing an issue regarding response on his car.

Just cut your front bar.

You won't care after 2 weeks of having the cooler in.

Just make sure you shape the cut well to fit the cooler.

I cut my front plastic bar with a hacksaw blade removed.

Chalked the approx line i wanted and cut roughly, then smoothed the edges with a half moon file.

Came out sweet ! Look in my signature

Yeah i might trim a bit but this bumer i have is meant to be a series 3 bumper that was a factory option. Looks similar to 400r bumper but i think it looks nicer. Might try find a pic of it and post it up. If i shave the aircon fan it should be no dramas getting a 50mm or so thick cooler in. I am also going to get a cooler type that has the outlets on the same side as i want to hook it back into the factory piping and save hasstles of cutting holes in metal work and getting owned my popo.

I was under the impression that a thicker cooler was not alway better since the time the air reaches the back of the cooler its significantly warmer and leaving little cooling capacity for the radiator and aircon radiator.

Since i am not after rediculas power increases i think i will just go with what fits nicely with minimal fuss.

Thanks for the input.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...