Jump to content
SAU Community

Is There Anything Wrong With This Turbine Wheel? Picture Inside, Have A Look.


Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Just about to purchase a turbo and then noticed this on the turbine wheel. Its the centre where the arrow is point, it looks like theres a bend in the plate/washer that under the bolt that holds the turbine wheel?

Is this normal and perfectly fine? Or is this no good?

Thanks,

Andy

post-8121-1177557267.jpg

get some carby cleaner and clean that thing up then check for shaft movement side to side back and forth and check for any chips that is a good start

Cheers

A

is it actually a bend or has it been ground out, looks to me like a bit of material has been removed for balancing purposes, kinda hard to tell from the photo....

is it actually a bend or has it been ground out, looks to me like a bit of material has been removed for balancing purposes, kinda hard to tell from the photo....

yeh looks pretty normal, from the photos it just looks like it was ground out for balancing

Thanks guys, it seems to be nothing unordinary. The owner reassured me there was nothing wrong with the turbo when it was removed and is happy to refund me if theres anything wrong. :thumbsup:

Appreciate the help guys!

yeah, but that doesn't look like the nut to me, it's the washer that's bent 90 degrees. you can see the nut, the bent thing is the washer.

It looks like mine did (w/o the dirt) when I got mine fitted, its fine, carby clean it and then fit it.

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t

Ok I got the turbo in the mail and had a good look. Its actually not a washer bent up but it is a chunk missing out of the centre. The turbo did have the CHRA replaced by Racepace so I'm assuming the chunk could have been taken out for balancing purposes? Heres some slighty more detailed pictures.

The scary part is I'm not sure if its actually been ground out on purpose, the feel of it feels like it broke off. It's got that rough clean cut feeling to it like if you broke off a corner of a brick.

post-8121-1178234790.jpg

post-8121-1178234805.jpg

it's supposed to be like that. don't worry about it.

and turns out I was wrong :rant: now the question is should I go back and edit all posts to conceal the crime???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...