Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just done bottum end on my stock 33 GTR, probably bearings. While im down there im going to put some pistons, rods n n1 oil pump in aswell. Im thinking about a new crank too if needed? ill be sending the block away aswell if i decide to keep the rb26 bottum end. After thinking of replacing all the internals it might be better for me to go rb30 bottum end if im going to be buying everything new anyway?

I currently have standard turbos running @ 1bar. I can source a gt42 1000hp turbo pretty cheep. what else would i need to upgrade even if i run the gt42 on low boost for now untill i can afford to upgrade the head and fuel system?

:EDIT: another question is, to get my car back up n running asap can i have a fully rebuilt bottum end and the rest of the engine stock? is there a problem in doing that?

Also would my power fc work with an rb30 bottum end?

Edited by RICK-GTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166262-gtr-rebuild-undecided-need-input/
Share on other sites

my advice is if you are going to get a new crank anyway, just buy an HKS or tomei 2.8 litre kit. it comes with rods, pistons, rings and crank. and will be suitable for your massive power goal. also, i would forget the plan of running a massive turbo at low boost. it will be a dog. far better to get something in the 500-700hp range. don't skimp on your turbo. it has one of the biggest effects on how your car drives and performs.

not really. around $5K for a kit including a 2.8 crank, good rods, good pistons, good rings.

now price up:

set of pistons

set of rods

set of rings

new R33 crank.

I would say that will touch $5K easily if you are buying good parts, and you now still have a 2.6...

Pistons + Rings - Arias or Cp or Tomei, up to $1500

Rods - around $1000

Crank - Around $1000

Total = 3.5k

If you go rb30 bottum end add the cost of the block and pulleys n adaptor plates i think (unsure, there is a topic somewhere) couldnt equal more than $1400 so youd probably just get it done for under 5k for rb30 complete bottum end

Prices on HKS 2.8 litre kits start from 5k for 600ps

21004-AN002AU $ 5,313.67AU HKS RB26DETT 2.8L STEP 1 441kW(600ps)

21004-AN004AU $ 6,955.01AU HKS RB26DETT 2.8L STEP 2 588kW(800ps)

2104-RN006AU $ 8,696.49AU HKS RB26DETT 2.8L STEP 3 882kW(1200ps)

you might need to check that crank price. I have a feeling the nissan crank is a fair whack more than $1K.

but yeah the rest is about right. not sure where you got the 2.8 litre prices but last time i checked them they were much less than that.

but it's up to you. RB30 is a good option. lots of power and torque. having been in both I prefer the 2.8 though.

fair enough. sorry my bad.

but it doesn't change my opinion. you are getting a lot more value for $$ I think with the 2.8 litre vs rebuilding with a new stock crank. the best cars I've been in were japanese 2.8 litre strokers.

New cranks are difficult to find at the moment, factor that into your considerations as well >_<

Im with Beer Baron on this one, if you are planning to switch to a big single, the cost comparison between rebuilding your 2.6 with forged components and purchasing one of the available Japanese 2.8 kits be it an HKS or Tomei version, make the stroker kit a much more attractive option.

Ill be happy with 400 - 500 awkw

Rb30 block i can get for $50 too, then the cost of sending it away to get cleaned up, Im sure vl turbo internals would be cheaper than 26 internals?

Still undecided n still learning

  RICK-GTR said:
Ill be happy with 400 - 500 awkw

Rb30 block i can get for $50 too, then the cost of sending it away to get cleaned up, Im sure vl turbo internals would be cheaper than 26 internals?

Still undecided n still learning

i dont think its that easy is it?

from memory its only certian rb30's that can be used? someone can correct me on this maybe?

for all your rb30 conversion have a good read of this.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/52458-rb...-lots-pics.html

it provides alot of info from a home built rb30 in a 32 gtr

  Angus Smart said:
i dont think its that easy is it?

from memory its only certian rb30's that can be used? someone can correct me on this maybe?

for all your rb30 conversion have a good read of this.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/52458-rb...-lots-pics.html

it provides alot of info from a home built rb30 in a 32 gtr

Yer i read that there is alot of little things to do and i know a place where i can get adaptor plates n stuff made for the sump etc. Unsure if rb30 would work with my power fc

you need to do a lot more research. why wouldn't it work with a power FC? how does the power FC know what size stroke your crank has? or what size bore you have? the head is still the same. the sensors are all still the same. remember the ecu just controls fuel, and spark (well obviously a few other little things too). it doesn't care about RB30, or RB31 or RB27 or RB28 etc.

i have to be honest. it seems like you have made your mind up. by all means go with the RB30, or the stock 26 build. but like I said if you are buying all new engine parts anyway the 2.8 kits are a good option and nearly all the top street and time attack cars in japan are now running 2.8...

  R31Nismoid said:
Your using the RB26 head, so the PFC will definately work.

Whats your budget? and is it 400 or 500rwkw? There is a fair difference between the two

aim for 450awkw that doesnt have to be right now either, i just want a bottum end at the moment to handle 450awkw and later on i will do headwork n turbo, i already have a fuel system lined up for later on also. There is no real budget but id rather do it all in stages than throwing 15k down in one week haha

Edited by RICK-GTR
  Beer Baron said:
well that's a start. a reliable 450kw costs around $20-$25K.

whatever way i decide ill be making a document for other skylines australia members with price's. I have a friend who is very good with engines n fabrication work wich we are doing everything ourselves so it will not cost me as much but i want to have some information about this kind of decission for other people.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...