Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Rebuild - Undecided Need Input :)

RICK-GTR

By RICK-GTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

RICK-GTR Collaborator

RICK-GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
261 pages of information.

If you carry on asking RB30 questions then this thread wont be around long as its all covered :P

Even your wildest dreams are in there

my first post still has a question in it wich is non rb30 related, i havent asked any real rb30 questions i was just asking ones opinion wich way they would go. If i wanted to know or seek information on building an rb26/30 then yes i could go to that thread or there is one also on a uk website.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

you are not quite breaking new ground here. there are hundreds, probably thousansds of GTR around the world making 450rwkw. they have been done all different ways, RB30, RB31, RB28, RB27, RB29, RB26, Big single, big twins, low mount twins, low mount single, ball bearing single, in 32, 33 and 34 GTR.

And you ask anyone who has a reliable, and healthy 450kw and they will tell you $20K to get the ball rolling and then up to another $10K to make the package really nice. don't forget a 450rwkw car needs some good brakes, needs some good suspension, need a decent fuel system, need a big radiator, needs a big intercooler, needs good tuning (and lots of time spent on doing it), need a good igntion system, needs an engine built by someone who knows what they are doing, needs some smart oil control mods, needs a gearbox upgrade, needs good tyres, needs good gauges. it needs money most of all. it doesn't matter if your mate is a top mechanic and engine builder. my best friend is a engineer and mechanic who runs his own shop and has for year, doesn't mean i'd expect him to build me a motor for free.

450rwkw is an admirable goal in a GTR, but it's a shit load of power and needs a serious wallet to back it up.

there are a few guys on here with 450rwkw+ i'm sure they will tell you some tales of cost vs benefit.

you will find lots and lots of guys between 250 and 300rwkw. not a lot of cost to get there. then some more guys with 300-350 kw (quite a lot more cost than the 300 guys) then a few more who've gone the extra little bit to 350-400kw. but there are even fewer sitting at 450kw and hardly any at 500rwkw. there is a reason for it. the cost grows exponentially and the enjoyment sometimes doesn't as the car becomes less usable, even on the track.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

How many beers did that post take?

I concur 150%. Spot on the money as usual.

Id also add, doesnt even matter if your mate can build motors. Building reliable RB's is an art.

There are key things that need attention that are not "standard" detail items for your "every day" rebuild. And you wont know these things unless you've put together many RB's in the past as you gain these things from knowledge of the motors themselves. Seeing them fail, working out why and then improving upon that.

You can be the best motor builder in your state, doesnt mean the RB built will last the distance if you dont have excellent knowledge of them.

rev210 said last week i think RB's cost a farken fortune to rebuild right, and he isnt wrong

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

Some good advice in above posts and I will add from experience here, go the jap stroker kit you will not regret it but you may end up with a cracked block if you use a standard 5u block with that much power . If you are looking for anything above 300-350 awkw ( genuine, not just in number) you should use a better block , a 24u or even a RRR block. Unfortunately they are hard to find and very expensive.. If you want over 400 kw you should be looking at a gearbox and clutch at the very minimum . Now you can see that high powered GTRS are bottomless pits .

sewid Grand Master

sewid

Posted
Posted

I was reading through and thinking to myself I'd want $30k to do this properly but Beer baron has already said it.

It's not like you can shop around for some of the parts, like wrxhoon has mentioned a 24u or a GT block would be better than the standard or rb30 block and you basically are over a barrel trying to source one of those.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
I was reading through and thinking to myself I'd want $30k to do this properly but Beer baron has already said it.

It's not like you can shop around for some of the parts, like wrxhoon has mentioned a 24u or a GT block would be better than the standard or rb30 block and you basically are over a barrel trying to source one of those.

Mick has spend $30k and it cost him zero for labour !!! You are right you can't buy N1 or GT blocks, even the days that you could you would be paying $3-$4 K for N1, much more for the Nismo GT.

You can always try to cut corners then re-do the whole thing again. Sometimes you don't even cut corners and you still have troubles .

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

If you are looking at the RB30...

Factor in the sump adaptor, rev reliability issues that require a good balancer + full length oil pump drive.

Then consider... Who has done it in a 33GTR?. The R32's have bonnet fouling issues unless you lower the subframe and engine mounts. The R33's 'may' or 'may not' have this same issue.

Spoolup does a set of RB30 CP forged pistons & rings with spool forged rods for 2k.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...