Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mm sounds nice, i been looking round i think the 180sx with s15 font end is what im going to do cause they just look too nice and i think its a combo, i been reading and i think the hardest part of the conversion is that the gearbox cross member needs to be modifyed and the tail shaft needs to be cut and re-balanced,

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh well i've pulled the font end off the 33, just paid my rego last week insurance was due next week so if i cancle my rego i should have a little extra cash to start me going on something, i might start pulling the engine out in a couple of week, ill be sure to take photos and keep you all posted ;) im getting excided now sometimes bad things turn good

the standard 180SX and S13 caliper/rotors will be the same (if not similar) to the R33 NA caliper/rotors - that the fronts are twin piston sliding, and the rears are single piston sliding. most of the guys on nissan silvia end up upgrading to the sumitomos. slotted rotors will increase brake performance - but why be half arsed about it all.

S14, S15, R32 Type M, R33 GTST, etc. will have 4 pot sumitomo fronts, and 2 pot rears.

depends on where you want to go with the car, drag, drift, circuit, motorkhana, hill climbs, etc.? from there i can give you a hand in deciding.

for the record i've done the turbo caliper upgrades on my R33 NA. see below

DSC01150.JPG

i get bored of driving in a straight line not much of a dragger i prefer circuts but i like hanging the rear end out, i want something that handles quite well,

eug your rims look hot as, make mine look like i wasted money

n ignuz thats one hot car quite diffrerent what is it??

Edited by unarmed_skyline

yeh im more of a jap car kinda person, n i've always tried to stay clear of vl's there are a few good ones around but just not my style, y have 4 doors lol who needs the extra weight

ok picked up my daily driver today from work cheap cheap deal $500 for an 86 pulsar (still a nissan) 300 k on the clock straight body and interia bit of paint fade, engine has slight tappet noise but other than that perfect and the deal sealer 11 months rego thats worth $470ish alone so im happy

found a few possible 180 donars,

if anyone wants any parts off the car its still in mint condision from the doors back it was a very clean car, just pm me n ill try help you out i got some odds and ends lying round

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

unfortunatly pretty slow atm i've had a heap of friends birthdays, and havent had much time to do much work, i've got most of the wiring loom out, taking apart most of the interia, drained and unconnected most of the hoses i just got to rip the engine out next, then i got chuck some new goodies at it, new water and oil pump new timing belt, bigger injectors and a few other tihngs,

as for a shell i've found a few 180sx's but im kinda going off that idea looking more now for an s14 with s15 front but i havent been able to find any shell's anywhere so im stranded a bit on the shell atm, im keeping my eyes out thou cause i want something a little different not as common,

im relitvly strandard with what i can do untill i get a new shell, then the fun begins

ps. if anyones looking for parts i still got a lot lieing around.

ok finally worked out exactly what im going to do.

now i've sourced a r33 det rolling shell complete with brakes and everything, just got to go down next week have a look at it then buy it so hopefuly next week ill have that.

as for eninge mod whilst the engines out plans are:

bigger injectors ( :P still running the standard na ones,) prob go for 400ccish nothing too big

replace timing belt, tensioners upgrade water pump, and adjustable cam gears.

AVO front mount cooler kit, my cooler got totaled in the crash

Just jap arop in alloy radiator (radiator was f**ked) also just jap oil cooler kit 13 row light weight

Either a 16" or twin 12" thermo fans with custom shroud

Im going to make up a custom air filter box to make the standard air box hide a pod in it with cold air induction.

new 3" exhaust system, already sold my old one cause i thought i wasnt getting another 33 DOH

retune my microtech

im relocating my microtech into a hidden compartment into the dash, and then putting the stock one in its original place with fake wires coming off it

g4 coilovers, (already got my whiteline strut brace) whiteline up-sized sway bars

Body work is undecided but will be a sleak looking body kit nothing over the top, fiberglass fenders, fiberglass bonnet with standard metal bracing

new rims my 4 stud roh mantis's wont fit a 5 stud car lol, prob get more of a jap style rims this time, but need to see choose body kit first

paint job

bucket seats

re-apolster rear seats and fabric trims in colour/metiral to match buckets

re-do my stereo, lay all the wires properly whilst the car is stripped

and i have 2 really good remote start alarms that i got for free off work so ill put one of them in too

quite a mod list i reckon hopefully it will be finished within a year, but it should be driveable in a few months :(

EDIT: GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR just found out 33 shell is unregistable because it failed compliance

Edited by unarmed_skyline
EDIT: GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR just found out 33 shell is unregistable because it failed compliance

Ohhh shizz :(, what happened to the R32 shell with an R34 front end idea? I got pretty excited when i got your sms ha ha

Keep us updated eh,

Sean'O

looks like the shells was damaged a little bit too much for it to be worth me fixing it, i might still check it out but yeh, i've found heaps of 180's and s13's but nothing else at all i just want to get one to start doing all the work

Ohhh shizz ;), what happened to the R32 shell with an R34 front end idea? I got pretty excited when i got your sms ha ha

Keep us updated eh,

Sean'O

  • 5 weeks later...

well after a few trys and cheacking out several shells i've finally found one thats actually going to be able to get back on the road.

its a 97 r33 series 2 yellow. comes with some nice jap 18 * 9's, momo airbag steering wheel, nismo 300kms dash and a few other gadjets

as for what needs to be done there was an electrical fire, and i need to put on new rear bar new tail lights (just swap mine) new front bar new bonnet and new gaurds, and spray all of that, thats all that needs done on the exteria. as for other bits i have to change the complete tail light loom rather easy and the front looms engine and body loom need to be changed over other than that some tyding up, the engine was damaged in the fire so my na +t's going to go in it :thumbsup:. i put a doposit on it and have done a vin check and everything all i got to do is pick it up on saturday and get started :) ill post up pics on saturday

ps ive already taken out my engine trans, tail lights, boot loom, engine loom and part of the body loom so im getting a big headstart to getting this on the road

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...