Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

in fact i like these brakes so much I bought another set for the other car on the weekend. 356mm set this time, with a minor adjustment to the dogbone adapter we got it to fit under our weds 17" wheels too

  • Replies 116
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I just wanted to post somewhere in here that I have now had the opportunity to use the "race" pads that Just Jap sell for the G4's. I have standard rear brakes with BEndix Ultimates in there and find that not only is there no bias issues, I have fixed a bias issue that I believe the car has from factory. I was regularly cooking rear rotors and pads before but now it all runs fine. Lap times are down and the car stops amazingly. I was regularly braking far too early due to being used to the standard setup. With the addition of good tyres and these brakes I knocked 3 seconds off my previous pb at Wakie.

Thats awesome. You were quick before from memory, so you are into the 1:07s or something now? Though i have to ask, what tyres? Tyres are worth 2-3 seconds at Wakefield, so be interesting to see you run the same tyres as you used to and see if there is any difference in lap times at all. Thats not to take away from the fact that the car is much easier to stop and nicer to drive.

1:11's on new enough RE55's and 1:08.5 with old 2nd hand slicks. My shocks are totally stuffed so if I can find some money for a rebuild of them I will go and have another crack. I nearly came in my pants every time I did a 1:08 so imagine how excited I'll get if I pull a 1:07.9999999!

So you are 2.5 seconds quicker on old slicks compared to relatively new semi slicks? That goes agaisnt the trend of typical time improvements for tyres. I suspect the RE55s were cactus as i would have thought a 250rwks R34 on RE55s would be quicker then 1:11s? Slap some new suspension in and decent RE55s and i suspect you will match/better then slick times!?!?!??!?!?!

LOL, actually no. Sober at present :) Just getting dumber by the day. :P You did you say "With the addition of good tyres and these brakes I knocked 3 seconds off my previous pb at Wakie"

LOL...sorry, just saying thats huge, but with swaybars in the mix as well it starts to paint a picture that makes more sense :)

Oh damn, maybe I forgot to mention the sway bars.

From my hazy memory I was running mid 1:11's with RE55's, then high 1:11's with sway bars, brakes and streeters, then mid 1:08's with sway bars, brakes and old slicks.

  • 4 months later...

Hi all great read, r33 gtst - anyone had clearance issues with wheels 356mm kit 18" wheels tried spacers still no good might hav to get wheels machined a little, tried two sets of wheels speedy inferno 18x8, and ROH drift R 18x8.

cheers skuzzas

I've run the 365 brakes under 17" rims without spacers, so it is the design of the rims that matter not the diameter.

In particular rims with "dish" just won't clear good brakes

Just re-reading the above, i cant believe how brakes can bag you 3 seconds, especially around a track like Wakefield. I mean think about a car that is 3 seconds slower at the drags and the distance between them when they are travelling over 150km/h. I cant see any brake upgrade allowing you to pull that sort of time difference from simply slowing the car a few meters deeper under brakes

In particular rims with "dish" just won't clear good brakes

The problem with Drift Rs is that they have "cheater dish" - where the end of the spoke curves in before contacting the barrel. It's the only way high offset wheels can get any lip at all.

Roy, I believe the tyres would have had a huge impact on the time.

Brakes to improve your time as long as you use them correctly and get on the gas quicker. Your lap times will slow if you are heavy on the brakes and hard on the acceleration because the distance you are covering at speed is reduced dramatically compared to a proper entry and exit with a constantly increasing throttle.

I agree regarding tyres, but i have simply read too many articles and have fiddled with enough brake setups to confidently say that the difference is on the 4th lap when you simply have too much car for the std brakes and everything is getting toasty hot

The only major improvement i think you see with bigger brakes is consistancy. SO a 3 seconds over a number of laps i can easily believe. Over a single lap, being your best lap of the day.... well i am just still a little sceptical of such claims.

Suspension setup and tyres play a bigger role in stopping distances then the caliper/rotor arrangement. There are many back to back tests that show stopping distance improvements of less then a car length from std equip using good pads and fluid compared to big dollar Brembo/AP/Alcon setups. Where the big setups help is that they operate at lower temps so are more consistant

  • 4 months later...
I've run the 365 brakes under 17" rims without spacers, so it is the design of the rims that matter not the diameter.

In particular rims with "dish" just won't clear good brakes

Any idea if they will be able to be run with 33 gtr wheels + spacers? Or am i better of getting the 330mm g4 set-up? :down:

cheers

Grab the 356mm setup and if your 17's dont fir then get some TE37 or something that have better brake clearance

So your saying go for the 356mm set-up, the 330mm doesn't really add up as an effective upgrade? I was hoping to not upgrade the wheels, everything adds up so violently.. motor, turbo, fuel set-up :D the wallet.

Going to measure the diameter of the wheel today, hopefully that's all Il need a 20-30mm spacer should stop it from hitting the spokes (as it's not a dished rim the spokes are set out more to the outer edge of the wheel), will report my finding

In the grand scheme of things the 330 and 356mm setups are pretty similar in price. And considering you have a big heavy GTR with plenty of grunt i think you are really better served with the 356, especially since there is a range of 17" wheels that will swallow them. Just need to flog off your current wheels to help fund the better 17" wheels.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...