Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

got a microtech LT12S for sale, its brand new and never been used.

Retails at $1495 so accepting offers over $1000

http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info....roducts_id=3620

SOLD

Also got a trust 4"thick intercooler

its a big cooler ..exact dimensions and pics i will get soon

Chasing offers over $300

Anything less and i will keep both items

0414391972

post-12291-1182815905_thumb.jpg

post-12291-1182815917_thumb.jpg

post-12291-1182815932_thumb.jpg

Edited by lukew105
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167112-car-parts/
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

im not gonna offer.. tell me what u want for it

and dont waste your or my time by offering me less than what i have asked for the microtech. As i said it is brand new so i wont sell it for 700 bucks that people offer me.

If you want it, get back to me asap

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167112-car-parts/#findComment-3155851
Share on other sites

Hi,

I might be interested in the cooler when you pics and dimentions.

Hey guys

got a microtech LT12S for sale, its brand new and never been used.

Retails at $1495 so accepting offers over $1000

http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info....roducts_id=3620

Also got a trust 4"thick intercooler

its a big cooler ..exact dimensions and pics i will get soon

Chasing offers over $300

Anything less and i will keep both items

I also need an rb25det gear box, an r33 front window, and interior carpet and boot lining.

If any of you guys have this please message me

0414391972

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167112-car-parts/#findComment-3155927
Share on other sites

seeing as it's brand new... and you asked for a 33 drivers window, Ill assume that you have a 33.

It will have a 33 base map, that will need to be tuned either way as its never been mapped.

If you wish to use it for another model of car, you will have to send it to microtech and get a new base map put on it.

Believe you can use it on a R32 though.... not 100%

Edited by R31 drift pig
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167112-car-parts/#findComment-3157090
Share on other sites

Is it plug and play? or wire in?

believe 33 plug and play will also plug straight into R32, and only require minor mapping changes, which any competent tuner should be able to do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167112-car-parts/#findComment-3160305
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...