Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

logging boost level has little to do with a controller

e.g aftermarket computer usually can do this, best get one with a map sensor :) this way you can map rpm verse boost and see the whole thing (vs a/f ratio etc)

you could get an ebc with a max boost peak recall, or even just a defi gauge (or similar) that has a peak boost recall. but it wont tell you when it happened or for how long

Edited by InterCooL

Yeah I have standard ECU and a mechanical boost guage, neither of which are any good for me....unless of course I can use that map sensor that the standard boost guage uses (on the firewall).....anyone know what it outputs?

I don't just need peak recall, I need regular output to a proper logger (eg 10x a second). Required by the regs of our race category.

yeah duncan, for the logging you will need a map sensor that can input to your logger. the factory map sensor should do the job. if you want another map sensor I have one here, you can have it for free (I still owe you for some sun visors from eons ago). I bought it when I though my map sensor was dead (turns out I was wrong). I use a defi gauge which doesn't just have peak, it records. can only record 5 minutes at a time, but it's cool cause I can do a few laps with it recording, then pull into the pits and play it back and watch boost, oil pressure, oil temp and fuel pressure in real time.

as for a good boost controller the HKS EVC IV and the Blitz SBC ID III are both supposed to be very good. I use a Greddy Profec B II and it holds my boost flat as a tack, so for me it's a very good controller. and they are cheap.

yeah I wouldn't be looking to run much boost either, 12psi when racing and 16-18ish when not running under 3e regs.

speaking of the standard map sensor, it doesn't seem to go to the ECU? is it only used by the stock boost guage?

yep, it's cluster only. i've pissed mine off since running the defi gauges and never looked back :)

if you want this map sensor dunc, just give me a yell and I'll pop it in the mail for you to play with.

nah its cool I've got mine still installed.

Can't find any info on the voltage output of the Map sensor or its range in the manual, I guess I will need to calibrate the output against the boost guage manually. Hope it doesn't max out at 14psi or somethign.

I had a quick look at these, the "data logging" seems to be the same as the defi guages, ie the guage itself can play back what happened.

I need an output of boost level that I can run into my data logger insead

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...