Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We've done the first phase of our installation on our R32 GTR.

Componets used:

LCD display: VMS - 8" VGA touchscreen

DSP: Alpine 701

Car PC - VMS - HP312

Front Stage: Oz Audio Matrix Elite 6.5"

Sub: Oz Audio Matrix Elite 12"

Amps: Treo 2x250

Accessories:

Griffin Power Mate USB controller here

Creative USB 24bit soundcard with TOSLINK out

NESA vision CCD mini reversing camera

Dlink Wifi

Dlink Bluetooth

Dlink USB hubs

The aim of the project was to create a professional Car PC demo car. The 8" LCD has been integrated into the factory centre console along with the Alpine RUX face and climate control panels. The PC itself is a Pentium M 1.2 with 1GB of ram and 120GB hard drive running Windows XP and Centrafuse including GPS navigation. The sound from the PC goes to a creative soundcard with TOSLINK out which connects directly to a Alpine 701 processor.

Its only running Fronts & a sub for pure sound quality purposes but we are thinking about converting this setup to a true 5.1 setup as both the PC and DSP supports DTS and Dolby surround.

The PCs, Amps and sub are all located in the boot with the mids in the factory location and tweeters in the a colume. It came 3rd in the last CAASQ comp in pro class.

ENJOY THE PHOTOS

IMG_0940.JPG

IMG_0953.JPG

We have more photos on the webiste here

We are trying to build a very unique car that incorporates the latest technologies. i would love to hear everyone's feedback.

Edited by gexenon
Very nice... i'm running the same front splits in my R33 and was thinking about getting an OzAudio sub myself.

Nice intall.

How's the sub sound? never heard one of them babies thump :teehee:

its a beautiful sub, very smooth and deep. Its a SQ sub so if you want nice clean music, its great.

Is that a custom install, to get the 8" LCD to fit?

ie cut, plastic bondo + respray?

Yeah, the 8 inch won't fit into the standard double din space. a 7" will, however if you want that integrated look, its got to be custom welded onto the original plastic frame.

The a/c panel and the alpine face has also been integrated into the centre.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...