Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes indeed, they were, but from new you could special order them without. If you can be bothered like i was you can track this down by contacting nissan japan. If you need the VIN number to reference with them just let me know and i'll shoot it to you. Also you should know, airbags can be retro fitted as the wiring is still there.

Cheers

When are you planning on getting it tuned? Who will be doing the tuning?

Any outstanding issues with the car?

Does the build date on the build plate say 95 or 96?

Do you have the stock steering wheel?

Thanks,

Tommo

Hey Tommo,

As far as the tune is concerned, will be done at CRD (croydon) but with my mechanic (Paul from Hunter Thomas Automotive in Newcastle) also on hand to dial up some of his own settings.(he's a very clever man!!!)

Issues with car. Front bar is a genuine GTR item, so it fits like crap. Clear coat on CF bonnet is starting to flake a little. Everything else is perfect and doing what is should.

Build plate, compliance and rego papers all say 96 Build.

I have a plain black sports wheel which came on the car, but not the Airbag wheel.

Let me know if you need any further info.

Cheers

Ben

Hey all,

for those that have been asking, attached is a couple of shots with the rims resprayed.. I reckon it's a good improvement. Now just need some time to wind the front coilovers down and fit the 235's to the front......niiiccceee!

post-3771-1185091716_thumb.jpgpost-3771-1185091789_thumb.jpg[attach

ent=109931:IMG_2176_3_1.JPG]

post-3771-1185091961_thumb.jpg

post-3771-1185091845_thumb.jpg

post-3771-1185091905_thumb.jpg

Edited by DRAGTS
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Finally had it tuned today. Kept it nice and safe but still ran an easy 271rwkw. :P Feels very quick on the street.

Also finally sorted out the suspension this week (lowered the front down and made a few adjustments.

So although i don't want to sell it even more now, i still have to......Come and get it.....will post dyno sheet later tonight. (nice linear power curve)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...