Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just curious because my mate has just got hold of a 30 block and wants to put it in his r34... but has heard that the neo head is not a good option because of the shim and bucket set up inside the head(aluminum intake buckets).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167582-hybrid-2530-neo-r34/
Share on other sites

Doing one at the moment, i feel they are definately superior to the r33 head fr that reason. Ive fitted gtr cams. You just have to cc the head, as the bowls are much smaller than the r33 head, so you end up using rb30et turbo pistons and end up with mid 8's comp.

  • 4 weeks later...

He's sourced a good bottom end, and thats at the machine shop.

At the moment he's aiming for around 600hp at the crank.

Still deciding on turbo.

RB30E block

Stock crank prepped, balanced etc.

stock rods(na RB30)

ACL bearings

RB26 ARIAS pistons 86.5mm

total seal rings

Head R34 neo RB25

plazma man intake manifold

tomei 260 poncams

70 hp nos system

  • 3 months later...

im also thinking about using my neo head....because they have smaller combustion chamber means that the comp ratio will be higher then that off a r33? I need alittle help in finding the right pistions to give the best comp ration...Will be using t04z and pushing 2.2 bar max...I would still use my hks gasket 1.2mm...

cheers

Whats the question? rb30 pistons wont cut it, the comp ends up too high. If you plan on using a 1.2m headgasket to drop it, it wont be anywhere enough, and is the wrong way of going about it. RB30ET forged pistons work out about right in the comp, at between 8.3 and 8.6 depending on what headgasket you use, how much the head/block get skimmed during the build, and the specific brand of piston.

email me for any info you require.

The RB26 pistons will give very high comp ratio due to the R34's small combustion chamber.

They are not an option really.

Yep, he ain't using those pistons anymore, as they are wrong for the job......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...