Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a tid bit of advice. While first thought would be that the funnelling of all that surface area into a relatively small diameter hole will give you lots of airflow to the brakes/rotors. it probably wont. Most likley you will get a lots of turblulence and reduced airflow. (also increases sc)

Be interesting to see how it goesss. but i would think you are better with a flush panel, whereby helping the cd of the car...and having an opening essentialy the same diam as the duct you are going to run. Its normally the best compromise.

Roy,

All fair points mate and i do tend to agree with you. The reason for them being so big is that i am going to run another duct from each fibreglass panel to the other side of the rotor, the ones you see are for the caliper. I thought that 2 would be better than 1, just waiting on more ducting to arrive.

The inlet you see is 75mm so not small but not huge either. I also do test how much air i get through these with my big f#$& off fan that we use to cool the car down after each run as the pit garages are air conditioned it helps cooling everything down under the car, pic below

The reason is that we do run in temps over 40, yesterday was 46 while i was doing this mod near killed me.

post-28646-1178418132.jpg

was a problem point and still not where i would like it.

Last time out i ran with the alloy radiator, standard fan, no shroud and a N1 water pump, ambient was 40 degree and i was a little hot with both the after market temp gauge in the engine out let and the Power FC both showing 96 max. Still a bit hotter than i would like but its really too hot to run these cars at that temp, intake temps and knock are the pits mate.

need to update my other thread on this topic too

Yer thanks but i still have top put put the second inlet in the duct and it was easier to do with the front bar back on the car. not to mention quite a bit of filler to put in and sanding to do as you can see

Edited by tacker

nearly finished still have to run two more ducts back to the fronts but made a real difference to the rotor temps and brake pads. No more white edges on the pads any more. and then some better rear ones and thats it

  • 2 weeks later...

Got my act together last night and finished the running of the brake ducts to the font brakes last night.

Also as an after though i put in some CAI which i hope will work, i guess it got to help.

post-28646-1180318959_thumb.jpg

post-28646-1180319008_thumb.jpg

post-28646-1180319079_thumb.jpg

Interesting setup.. I'd be interested in whether channeling the air into such a small defined space is any better than the general flow effect over the wider area.. e.g. just removing the splash guards and allowing the air to pass through.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...