Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive just built a sub box for my R34 today and thought i'd share the design. I wanted a couple of things out of this box:

- be a suitable volume for a pair of JL Audio 10W0's

- fit snugly enough in the boot so that it was rigidly in place without tying down or bolting in

- removable

- utilise the awkward boot shape effectively

- not require any modification to the boot area

I measured the boot and came up with the following dimensions:

post-28052-1178956578_thumb.jpg

H1 = 190mm = the distance from the floor carpet to the little rise on the mid shelf on the right hand side

H2 = 210mm = the distance from the rise on the right to the underneath of the wiper motor cover

W = 700mm = the distance between the top of the left strut tower and the big rise on the right of the mid shelf

So the box needs to look something like this (hidden detail not shown):

post-28052-1178956772_thumb.png

D = 350mm = arbitrarily chosen to give the desired box volume.

I made a cardboard mock-up to test the fit:

post-28052-1178956806_thumb.jpg

And proceeded to make the box with those dimensions:

post-28052-1178956926_thumb.jpg

post-28052-1178956951_thumb.jpg

post-28052-1178956976_thumb.jpg

The box is ~60ltrs internal, which is just enough volume for those 2 subs in a sealed enclosure. To be sure i didn't lose any volume, i mounted the drivers inverted and stuffed the box with pillow-fill. The amp filled the space on the right side and the fire extinguisher will fit on the left.

If you want to make the same from 16mm MDF, the piece dimensions I used are:

Sides - 350mm(D) x 400mm (H) with a chunk taken out on the bottom/back of 140(D) x 190(H)

Top - 668(W) x 350(D)

Front - 668(W) x 368(D)

Bottom1 - 668(W) x 140(D)

Bottom2 - 668(W) x 210(D)

Back1 - 668(W) x 178(H)

Back2 - 668(W) x 190(H)

When measuring pieces for a box this shape, don't forget:

a) take into account the width of the MDF! (hence the strange piece measurements)

b) make sure the pieces that create the concave back overlap on the inside, so there's solid wood-to-wood on that join.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168399-sub-box-design-for-an-r34-boot/
Share on other sites

Commendable effort, I like the way you shaped it into a L shape to use the most amount of space possible. Does the rear speaker magnets get in your way at all?

the rear speakers are tucked up higher than the wiper motor, so they're not a problem....not that they actually DO anything with a bloody baby seat anchor through their cones!

would look awesome if you made a board of mdf to cover the wheel wheel bits and covered it in carpet of vynal .. then will look customish :)

nice deign btw.. I installed a amp rack in the same design .. Im trying to do a wheel well sub enclosure .. shit im bad at fibreglass

Dsc00545.jpg

Edited by DECIM8

question for decim8.

seeing as you have a alpine and a fusion amp. I'm guessing the alpine rins the front/rears, the fusion nv class the subs.

Have you noticed a large turn on bang through the subs every time the system is powered up?

would look awesome if you made a board of mdf to cover the wheel wheel bits and covered it in carpet of vynal .. then will look customish :)

the wheel bits? You mean the floor over the spare tyre? There is already the standard floor of carpeted chipboard over the tyre, which is neat enough.

PS: i'm a function-over-form man myself, so anything that's not related to the function of the speakers prolly wont be added.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
    • The odometer does go up when driving.  Does this tell it is an issue with the speedometer itself?    Where can I look for replacement cluster? Or speedo? I can likely do the repair.. Will ER34 cluster work on HR34? Or do I need a HR34 20GT S2 specifically lol   
    • Mine's a bit bigger at 70x150mm roughly. The spots are flat, just can feel the edges if I dig my nail into it. I did fix some other other ones by both using my finger to sand that small spot (I'm a bit wary of doing this and creating hot spots and a bigger mess) and I also did sand over it flat and others, but this also worried me a bit because if I create an overall low spot on the panel on paint that is good.  Correct me if I'm wrong but as long as it's flat even if I can feel the edges, I can put filler because it will all be level once I sand it? I can see myself going in a circle after sanding guidecoat with 320 grit if for example the panel is flat with my hand but because I sanded the guidecoat I could have created a low spot again somewhere. Unless where I'm going wrong is what I mentioned previously where I didn't go low enough on the grits. It's 1 step forward and 2 step backwards here haha. I'll probably need to experiment with it more. Last time I go back to bare metal lol.
×
×
  • Create New...