Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive just built a sub box for my R34 today and thought i'd share the design. I wanted a couple of things out of this box:

- be a suitable volume for a pair of JL Audio 10W0's

- fit snugly enough in the boot so that it was rigidly in place without tying down or bolting in

- removable

- utilise the awkward boot shape effectively

- not require any modification to the boot area

I measured the boot and came up with the following dimensions:

post-28052-1178956578_thumb.jpg

H1 = 190mm = the distance from the floor carpet to the little rise on the mid shelf on the right hand side

H2 = 210mm = the distance from the rise on the right to the underneath of the wiper motor cover

W = 700mm = the distance between the top of the left strut tower and the big rise on the right of the mid shelf

So the box needs to look something like this (hidden detail not shown):

post-28052-1178956772_thumb.png

D = 350mm = arbitrarily chosen to give the desired box volume.

I made a cardboard mock-up to test the fit:

post-28052-1178956806_thumb.jpg

And proceeded to make the box with those dimensions:

post-28052-1178956926_thumb.jpg

post-28052-1178956951_thumb.jpg

post-28052-1178956976_thumb.jpg

The box is ~60ltrs internal, which is just enough volume for those 2 subs in a sealed enclosure. To be sure i didn't lose any volume, i mounted the drivers inverted and stuffed the box with pillow-fill. The amp filled the space on the right side and the fire extinguisher will fit on the left.

If you want to make the same from 16mm MDF, the piece dimensions I used are:

Sides - 350mm(D) x 400mm (H) with a chunk taken out on the bottom/back of 140(D) x 190(H)

Top - 668(W) x 350(D)

Front - 668(W) x 368(D)

Bottom1 - 668(W) x 140(D)

Bottom2 - 668(W) x 210(D)

Back1 - 668(W) x 178(H)

Back2 - 668(W) x 190(H)

When measuring pieces for a box this shape, don't forget:

a) take into account the width of the MDF! (hence the strange piece measurements)

b) make sure the pieces that create the concave back overlap on the inside, so there's solid wood-to-wood on that join.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168399-sub-box-design-for-an-r34-boot/
Share on other sites

Commendable effort, I like the way you shaped it into a L shape to use the most amount of space possible. Does the rear speaker magnets get in your way at all?

the rear speakers are tucked up higher than the wiper motor, so they're not a problem....not that they actually DO anything with a bloody baby seat anchor through their cones!

would look awesome if you made a board of mdf to cover the wheel wheel bits and covered it in carpet of vynal .. then will look customish :)

nice deign btw.. I installed a amp rack in the same design .. Im trying to do a wheel well sub enclosure .. shit im bad at fibreglass

Dsc00545.jpg

Edited by DECIM8

question for decim8.

seeing as you have a alpine and a fusion amp. I'm guessing the alpine rins the front/rears, the fusion nv class the subs.

Have you noticed a large turn on bang through the subs every time the system is powered up?

would look awesome if you made a board of mdf to cover the wheel wheel bits and covered it in carpet of vynal .. then will look customish :)

the wheel bits? You mean the floor over the spare tyre? There is already the standard floor of carpeted chipboard over the tyre, which is neat enough.

PS: i'm a function-over-form man myself, so anything that's not related to the function of the speakers prolly wont be added.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...