Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i work with carbon and you can repair it. its a prick of a job if u want the carbon to still be clear. if you just need a fix and not a clear finish fix, prob cost like 200 plus paint, clear finish like 600 plus paint. a clear finish needs extra time take to align the weave of the carbon, extra time ti not distort the carbon, time to re clear the entire bonnet so the corners dont look out of place with nice new clear resin and most expensive of all, tryin to find some 1 who will take the time to do it, so thats y ull pay through the nose if u want a clear finish.

IMO, get it repaired, and instead of spraying, there is new contact type carbon stuff you can get, ive seen many items wrapped in it, no distortion or defects visible, then ppl apply like 3 coats of 2 pac clear and it gives the piece a deep clear coat and awesom carbon finish.

speak to abcent on the forum and get him to show you his drift wing. when he got it, it looks like carbon and will fool almost every1 out there, other than ppl like myself that work with the shit and know the diff.

hope this helps ya out

um not 100% sure of places that would be reliable enough to do a clear carbon repair, they are very much butchers most places. i work in the aircraft industry so we have to be more precise.

if u plan to spray, any panel beater can do it.

but otherwise um.... try looking in teh yellow pages. really dont know man.

i work with carbon and you can repair it. its a prick of a job if u want the carbon to still be clear. if you just need a fix and not a clear finish fix, prob cost like 200 plus paint, clear finish like 600 plus paint. a clear finish needs extra time take to align the weave of the carbon, extra time ti not distort the carbon, time to re clear the entire bonnet so the corners dont look out of place with nice new clear resin and most expensive of all, tryin to find some 1 who will take the time to do it, so thats y ull pay through the nose if u want a clear finish.

IMO, get it repaired, and instead of spraying, there is new contact type carbon stuff you can get, ive seen many items wrapped in it, no distortion or defects visible, then ppl apply like 3 coats of 2 pac clear and it gives the piece a deep clear coat and awesom carbon finish.

speak to abcent on the forum and get him to show you his drift wing. when he got it, it looks like carbon and will fool almost every1 out there, other than ppl like myself that work with the shit and know the diff.

hope this helps ya out

Hey Cheez, what sort of resin do they use with the carbon, i have a small chip in the edge of my bonnet i'd like to fix.

from a personal note, i work in the aircraft industry so i got access to some of the best resins and repair materials that are out there. but like plynx said any good resin will do the job, see the guys at FGI and get them to mail you out a small container and catalyst. like $30 for a small job like your talking.

  • 3 weeks later...
we do repairs on cf aero parts from $220 it will come out 80-99%

After you have repaired it, if it's the cheaper type bonnet (layer of carbon on top and the rest f/glass) you need bonnet pins. The only legal ones I know of are the Ford GT type that countersink into the bonnet, or similar

I got defected for my bonnet pins sticking up......never said a word about the c/f bonnet

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
×
×
  • Create New...