Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Perhaps try another coat of fresh paint on the rocker covers? ;)

I must say I've read through your specs list about 5 times now and the one thing I can't help but wonder is why you are only running 14psi?

the reason why i have not raised the boost anymore is because of the standard 444cc injectors as turning it up to 16psi saw it hit above 90 duty cycle

and jim said that it's best to run it safe so he turned it back down to 14psi

post up your IGN and INJ map

just view on the hand controller and punch it into an excel spreadsheet

should take you 5 minutes

then we can see your maps and see how its tuned

will give away lots of info

how do i do that???

Cheers

anthony

You have a half baked setup

So expect half baked performance.

Until you get the accompanying mods to the turbos, then expect sub-standard performance from the setup.

Your chasing a problem that quite frankly doesnt exist.

The turbos are not "too laggy", they are working as you would expect with only half of the supporting mods.

Get the parts onto it as listed by Beer Baron and go for a proper/decent retune.

If you dont, then revert back to standard turbos as thats all your supporting mods are really good for

main menu

SETTING

IGN MAP

then youll see a 5x5 view on the 20x20 map

so write those numbers down into an excel spreadsheet

then scroll to the right 5 times, so you start at row 6 (look at the top row for the row #)

and then keep doing that

until you cover all 20x20

With head porting and the ACL's you are perhaps well under the stock compression ratio? Do you have the CC's for the head and spec of the ACL piston used?

With a lower compression ratio you will drop the bottom end power off a tad and you will need more boost to make the same power. There is a little bit of swings and round abouts when you throw in head porting but, what the car is really needing is a set of camshafts for turbos that size.

You obviously also need to have some split dump pipes, I didn't see them mentioned. If you don't have them with those turbos you are looking at a bottle neck. The other thing to ensure is that you port matched the exhaust manifold for the turbo's exhaust housing entry.

600HP turbos should be matched with head work, cams , intercooler etc.. from an airflow perspective. Just like a turbo's map there is an island of efficiency for each of these components. Attempting to have them line up will always net you a faster and more responsive car.

You have lots of the good bits already but, bottom line is throw some injectors (700cc sards aren't bad), dump pipes and cams into that setup and it will be a very different animal.

You have a half baked setup

So expect half baked performance.

Until you get the accompanying mods to the turbos, then expect sub-standard performance from the setup.

Your chasing a problem that quite frankly doesnt exist.

The turbos are not "too laggy", they are working as you would expect with only half of the supporting mods.

Get the parts onto it as listed by Beer Baron and go for a proper/decent retune.

If you dont, then revert back to standard turbos as thats all your supporting mods are really good for

Hi nismoid

the reason why this thread was started was to see why the response i was getting from my turbos was different to other peoples experiences with similar setups even with bigger turbo's. Maybe you should use the search function and see how many people who own GTR's have a similar set up to me i.e no cam gears, they have injectors and are running higher boost but that fact doesn't change boost response which is what i was asking about. As you can tell i have done a search on it!!

and thanks for all your helpful responses

Cheers

anthony

Edited by black sky
With head porting and the ACL's you are perhaps well under the stock compression ratio? Do you have the CC's for the head and spec of the ACL piston used?

With a lower compression ratio you will drop the bottom end power off a tad and you will need more boost to make the same power. There is a little bit of swings and round abouts when you throw in head porting but, what the car is really needing is a set of camshafts for turbos that size.

You obviously also need to have some split dump pipes, I didn't see them mentioned. If you don't have them with those turbos you are looking at a bottle neck. The other thing to ensure is that you port matched the exhaust manifold for the turbo's exhaust housing entry.

600HP turbos should be matched with head work, cams , intercooler etc.. from an airflow perspective. Just like a turbo's map there is an island of efficiency for each of these components. Attempting to have them line up will always net you a faster and more responsive car.

You have lots of the good bits already but, bottom line is throw some injectors (700cc sards aren't bad), dump pipes and cams into that setup and it will be a very different animal.

Thanks for the reply. See i bought the car with all these mods done to it, i have the receipt for all the work that was done but i'm not to sure on specific details. but i just expected a GTR to push me back in my seat hard especially with 250 AWKW but it doesn't. i already have the plans to change the injectors and install cam gears but my power goal of 320-350 rwkw apparently doesn't need the dumps to be changed ( that's what my tuner says's) but i would love the increase in response if it would make a 300-400 rpm reduction in lag. And i really don't have the funds to install cams unfortunately i know that would make a huge difference but i spent all my money buying the car in the first place.

just on the note of cam gears, what cam gears should R33'ers with a GT30R turbo be looking at in terms of getting a bit better response? series 2

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t
just on the note of cam gears, what cam gears should R33'ers with a GT30R turbo be looking at in terms of getting a bit better response? series 2

Cam gears are cam gears so you don't need the expensive jap brand cam gears as they all do the same job and they are interchangeable amongst the RB family so rb20 cam gears will fit rb25 and rb26 as well. not to sure about the rb30 though. Hope this helps

Cheers

anthony

Hi nismoid

the reason why this thread was started was to see why the response i was getting from my turbos was different to other peoples experiences with similar setups even with bigger turbo's. Maybe you should use the search function and see how many people who own GTR's have a similar set up to me i.e no cam gears, they have injectors and are running higher boost but that fact doesn't change boost response which is what i was asking about. As you can tell i have done a search on it!!

and thanks for all your helpful responses

Cheers

anthony

Like i said, half baked = poor results.

People with even bigger turbos wont be running them in a stock motor now will they?

All you are doing is running very large twins on a stock motor (for the sake of this conversation)

Head porting & exhaust, somewhat to do with it, but thats it.

Everything other item you have listed in your first post basically has nothing to do with response/power.

So direct comparison is utterly impossible until you start to match the parts everyone else has

As ive told you, apply some lateral thought to this.

1) Your not running half the parts everyone else is running, and they are using smaller turbos in a lot of cases

2) Your experiencing average performance

:sorcerer:

Item 1 & 2 are, funnily enough, directly related to each other.

:sorcerer:

For the fact your running those turbos on essentially a stock head, capacity RB26, those results are as good as you can expect

Thanks for the reply. See i bought the car with all these mods done to it, i have the receipt for all the work that was done but i'm not to sure on specific details. but i just expected a GTR to push me back in my seat hard especially with 250 AWKW but it doesn't. i already have the plans to change the injectors and install cam gears but my power goal of 320-350 rwkw apparently doesn't need the dumps to be changed ( that's what my tuner says's) but i would love the increase in response if it would make a 300-400 rpm reduction in lag. And i really don't have the funds to install cams unfortunately i know that would make a huge difference but i spent all my money buying the car in the first place.

If you have spent all your money for now , my advice is to leave the car alone and just keep it well serviced. A substancial increase in power will cost you in a substancial and on-going manner. 350rwkw is a fairly expensive proposition to maintain.

I think you need dumps if you don't have them, you will make more power.

14psi isn't much boost for N1's , that power isn't really shabby for the boost, they like to live at 18psi or so. If you add some cam gears you ought to be able to tweak the power curve.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...