Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, being my first topic, I'm gonna try my best to not ask a "St00pid n00b" question....

I've been looking at several posts on the forum in regards to tuning the RB25DET NEO, and in a more focused sense, I'm more concern about the camshaft/camgears direction.... I can't afford a camshaft at the moment, but I can easily afford camgears and a tune... So firstly, It is well known to me that the Rb25DET NEO utilizes N-VCT, and from what I've read, many people change the exhaust cam gear only... I've also read that there may an 'adjuster' of sorts available... As per this post from another thread:

No. the RB25 has variable timing on the intake side. Bass Junky (IIRC) has made an adjuster for it though, so do a search.

Also, wanted to take maximum advantage of both aftermarket camgears AND N-VCT, I found this on wiki:

Some Nissan engines only have N-VCT on the inlet cam (such as the RB25DE/DET) while others have it on both the inlet and exhaust cams.

AND

Although there was never a factory Nissan Variable Cam System for the RB26, tuning companies such as HKS. sell aftermarket options.

So if some aftermarket (HKS) systems were available for the RB26DETT? Would similar systems be available for the RB25DET? Also, does anyone have any experiance or knowledge about these 'adjusters' and aftermarket options and whatnot? Info would be much apreciated...

A few more questions:

1: What benefit would I see from my engine (RB25DET NEO) from either both or just exhaust camgear on a stock motor?

2: What benefit would I see later on with a camshaft fitted (preferably a mild one, with a bit more lift, but good idle) working in conjunction with my camgears...

3: If I bumped up my boost to 10psi with camgears, would I see much benefit with the two changes together?

4: Is there much difference between makes for cam gears, I hear some people like HKS whilst others use OS Giken, I've read that GReddy make a more durable camgear...

Edited by Marco-R34GTT

hi

i have bass junkys experiemental adjuster on my r33 rb25det

we made no power at all with any adjustments and the stock setup was the best so we set it back to that

the device is still fitted to my car, it sits behind the stock cam gear so u can adjust them without removing the cams

rbs5det neo engines actually have vct on both cams. the rb25det in an r33 has inlet vct only, so we add an adjustable cam gear to play with the exhaust side.

Since you have a neo this may mean you wont have much use of any adjustable cam gears. if you lose the vct, it is a bit of work and you will have to pick either a) set adj cam gear for low end response or b) set adj camgear for top end. if thats fine for you, then thats great. if you try and set it for the midrange.. whats the point, it will be a bit off low AND high.

Vct is a good thing, keep it until(if) you change cams. it does the work of an adjustable cam gear, but changes while the engine revs out, like vtec yo! if you havent upped the boost yet, then cams should be at the tail end of your mod list.

HKS only made about 20 of their vcam units or whatever they were called, and they all ended up in japanese demonstrator cars such as the hks driving performer... you wont find one for sale. they are probably uber expensive if you did manage to find one.

Ah I see, I'm getting a little confused with the NEO and normal 25DET, I shoulda done more research..

Well thanks heaps, but then on that note, how will aftermarket cams work with the dual NVCT on both the exhaust and intake camgears?

rb25det neo has vct on intake cam only. so it`s possible to use exhaust cam gear, but as i have read here on this forum - there is no advantange in exh. cam gear for neo, unlike r33 rb25det.

SO if I may ask for some advice, if you were in my shoes, and so over the coarse of 12/18 months.. Your going to add 3" exhaust, FMIC, Apexi PFC, AFM, Boost increase (and later, a larger turbo), NISMO injectors and a range of other goodies... What would be better, to change one camgear, neither or both? From which set-up would I have the most to gain? In terms of camgear arrangement, or keeping the NVCT.....

Can anyone here give some feedback on how using either the stock NVCT or aftermarket camgears react when placed on either a stock motor, or with some softcore aftermarket upgrades?

gears will not help in 34s, get the Tomei type B cam. otherwise don't do anyhthing

Also you need to take into consideration that stock rb25 can take approx 400rwhp. I'm not sure the turbo size you want to chuck in.. however If you intend to have a GT30 and make 400rwhp on stock internal, do not change the cams, if you do, the power will increase further engine will stuff up even faster~~

ignore the gears until you get turbo N other stuff done, decide after everything is installed.. gear installation got nothing to do with turbo side, so doens't matter if you do everything at one go or seperately, you gonna get charged all the same...

.. but if you decide to still do it I've got brand new HKS in and ex gears for sale~~`

  • 3 months later...

Since it's getting rebuilt; just get the engine builder / workshop to block off all the VCT lines and run it without... get a set of cams and gears; and tune away. You'll see a little benefit but it is rather subjective as to whether or not it is a "gain".

The VCT on the R34 works differently to the VCT on the R33; I believe it has something to do with the electrics which makes tuning in a cam gear harder; wherever on the curve you gain, you lose out somewhere else.

Do a search of Bass Junky's threads to read up on the effectiveness of cam gears on the NEO; I think you'll find that the result was "don't do it"

Might as well put the $300-$400 towards a set of cams.

On a side note though; Tomei does suggest an alternative for the NEO; you remove NCVS and use the gear on the exhaust... I think that's the translation... someone else might be able to confirm.

thats what im trying to find out...bass junky has moderate power.....i think around the 260rwkw....Minimual gains if any...Does that neccesararly mean no gains with high power demands aswell?

no you need to pull the vct pully apart and re drill its fixings so it can be adjusted externaly. mona's engine has it. (moonie pie)

you need sonone with acess to a mill to do it. phyl ryal in windsor has done quite a few.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...