Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, when i brought my car back from victoria i just took it to Sturt cop cause im sure they would be less picky there :P and with my turbo timer i just covered it with a big sticker and got away with that :D

haha! seriously?

Do you have to live a certain distance from the city to go to the Sturt cop shop? Or can anyone do that? I've heard they're much easier then Regency.

anyone can go to sturt

they will check the

- engine no

- vin no

- build dates

- window tint

I have seen many GTR's, GTST's, Stageas, Supra's ect go through as it is an IDENTITY check not a defect or road worthy check. They are only checking that the car or engine is not stolen

** MAYBE CUBES OR ANOTHER MODERATOR COULD MAKE A STICKY ABOUT THIS TOPIC AS THERE ARE NEW THREADS ARE BEING CONTINUALLY STARTED ON THIS TOPIC**

Edited by Whiplash

just took a r32 gtr through for an ID check and got pinned for having no complience plate!! "the green one". Apparantly SA is the only state that needs them, Iam not sure if this only applys to cars brought in under the 15 yo rule though? Either way I now have to have a Victorian registered car taken through regency for full complience/roadworthy testing I also have to get the side intrusion bars "re-engineered"!!!!!!!!!! needless to say Iam fair pissed off.....

Ryan

i went thro all this not having a compliance plate year or a year and a half ago. although i passed i still dont have a compliance plate or the other type of plate which they told me i was going to get one or the other.

if ya got any q's i can try and help out

Edited by Turbz_13
i went thro all this not having a compliance plate year or a year and a half ago. although i passed i still dont have a compliance plate or the other type of plate which they told me i was going to get one or the other.

if ya got any q's i can try and help out

I thought all import cars MUST have compliance plates? So if i buy a car from interstate i must make sure it has that?

u just need an engine number check to make sure its not a stolen engine, then swap regos to sa. Regency will do it, and its separate from the defect station. No need to hide mods. Sturt also do it.

So as long as it's registered in another state that's all i have to do with getting it re-registered in SA? So i don't have to worry about the turbo timer? It's the only mod to the car.

Do i lose whatever is left of the registration from interstate?

Ring regency and ask them.

Well, just rang Regency. As long as the car I'm buying has been fitted with an Australian Compliance plate (which it does), all i have to do once in Adelaide is to bring it in for an identity check. Won't even need to remove the turbo timer as it's a identity check to make sure it isn't a stolen vehicle etc, and not a RWC check. Cool.

So it doesn't matter whether i take it to regency or sturt rd. What days is the sturt rd one open? Tues Thurs or Weds Thurs?

Edited by webng

They will almost certainly glance inside the car, and if they spot the turbo timer they can/will sting you for a full Regency check, which you definitely don't want (then every speck of rust is picked on, dented chassis rails, leaking/worn bushes/tie rods etc). Be careful.

They will almost certainly glance inside the car, and if they spot the turbo timer they can/will sting you for a full Regency check, which you definitely don't want (then every speck of rust is picked on, dented chassis rails, leaking/worn bushes/tie rods etc). Be careful.

I'll keep that in mind.

What if the car hasn't been registered yet interstate? Full Australian compliance but no registration. I wonder if it'll be treated the same as one that's already registered. I can borrow trade plates from a mate here to drive it back.

If it has been complianced but not rego'd, it would be the same as a shop here doing the compliance, and you will require a full regency inspection.

Wrong, just spoke to Regency, as long as it has it's compliance plates, doesn't matter if it's from interstate, all it needs is an identity check.

edit: But apparently a lot of the time they pull you up for a full compliance inspection anyways?

Edited by webng
I think he's suggesting if it's been complianced but NEVER registered before it will need the full check.

Not according to the guy from Regency i spoke to. Apparently as long as the car is complied, all it needs is an identity check to register in s.a. Doesn't matter if it's been registered or not. But it looks like more often then not they can/will pull you in for a full check if they can/aren't too busy/your car looks dodgy.

Edited by webng

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...