Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Joined

oldie

By oldie,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
Posted

head light height adjustment on a series 2? really ? if so thats one more gadget I can play with when the car finally gets here.

\

I'm guessing that yours is a late (post-August) 1998 model, so it's a series 2, right? In that case, the 3-stage switch is probably for your headlight height adjustment.

Not sure about the other things, maybe post some pictures and see what the consensus is?

joe26f Proficient

joe26f

Posted
Posted

yep 3 stagea switch is for the headlights up n down. next to mine i have a little flashing LED for my blackwidow immobilizer not sure what your switch is for, but just bout every series 2 ive seen has something different there so good luck....

joe26f Proficient

joe26f

Posted
Posted

They are xenon from standard but compliance workshops remove them during their process, and replace them with a dodgey gay wiring setup and lights that blow every 3 weeks, lucky i dont do much night time driving and my dads mate owns a workshop i just drop in a take some globes when i need them.

saw a set of the original xenon resistor units, wiring and globes start at a dollar on ebay and finish for over $850 so they ain't cheap.

Question for everyone else; are compliance shops allowed to take these in my opinion if youve bought the car you own everything in it and they can't take it. how do i go about footing them up the arse and taking them back? ill just have to go flog $850 worth of intercooler n bits from their workshop

leetom Proficient

leetom

Posted
Posted
They are xenon from standard but compliance workshops remove them during their process, and replace them with a dodgey gay wiring setup and lights that blow every 3 weeks, lucky i dont do much night time driving and my dads mate owns a workshop i just drop in a take some globes when i need them.

saw a set of the original xenon resistor units, wiring and globes start at a dollar on ebay and finish for over $850 so they ain't cheap.

Question for everyone else; are compliance shops allowed to take these in my opinion if youve bought the car you own everything in it and they can't take it. how do i go about footing them up the arse and taking them back? ill just have to go flog $850 worth of intercooler n bits from their workshop

yeh this was talked about recently, not sure what forum but the conclusion was everything that car came with is yours.....i believe your well within your rights to ask for them.......not sure if i'm correct tho

ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
Posted

I was alerted by someone else on these forums stating they didnt get their xenon lights back, so I made sure I rang and asked about it. Before I even got 1/2 way thru the sentence he assured me they bag everything they change and ship it over with the car.

depending on how straightforward the swap over is I may or may not swap back to the xenon lights!

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted
They are xenon from standard but compliance workshops remove them during their process, and replace them with a dodgey gay wiring setup and lights that blow every 3 weeks, lucky i dont do much night time driving and my dads mate owns a workshop i just drop in a take some globes when i need them.

hmm that doesn't sound right either - yes they will replace them with a halogen setup (like most other cars on the road except maybe new bmw's and lexus's?).

But i've had my headlights in for 12 months and only replaced them voluntarily to do a road trip interstate cos I thought my "original" ones weren't that bright. Turns out there was probably nothing wrong with them so there you go.

Definitely shouldn't need to replace them every 3 weeks (not sure if you were exaggerating but even twice a year is way too often!!).

While we're talking headlights, I did notice when I replaced mine that my right side headlight doesn't sit in properly. Normally the clip will hold it tight so it cant move - well thats how my left side one is, but the right side one can wobble about a mm or half a mm up and down. Not enough to make a difference and it definitely wont fall out or anything but I guess it does mean its a bit of a dodgy setup...

I wonder if the compliance workshops all use a similar setup or not??

mike40sydney Experienced

mike40sydney

Posted
Posted
I was alerted by someone else on these forums stating they didnt get their xenon lights back, so I made sure I rang and asked about it. Before I even got 1/2 way thru the sentence he assured me they bag everything they change and ship it over with the car.

depending on how straightforward the swap over is I may or may not swap back to the xenon lights!

if the compliance shop does the usual butcher job on the zennons you will never get them to work again as they hack out the wiring .pm me for more info nudge nudge wink wink say no more

joe26f Proficient

joe26f

Posted
Posted

it was bit of an over exageration ive replaced them 3 times in 12 months but that is too much in my books, ive done a bit bettter job insulating the plugs and crap they put on and havent blown since. The wiring for headlights looks hella dodgey in my car.

webng Experienced

webng

Posted
Posted
it was bit of an over exageration ive replaced them 3 times in 12 months but that is too much in my books, ive done a bit bettter job insulating the plugs and crap they put on and havent blown since. The wiring for headlights looks hella dodgey in my car.

So definitely no go with putting Xenons back on? I just don't see the logic behind taking them off for compliance... I thought Xenons ARE a good thing, especially if they are adjustable (glare).

StageIan Rising Star

StageIan

Posted
Posted
dont know how the system works but does the headlight height adjustment work with non Xenon lights.

Tried adjusting mine with the the three way switch on the right of the steering column and it didnt do squat. Im gonna have to also check the wiring on the right headlight set up cause I noticed that it flicked off & on a few times. Bodgy brothers strikes again.

Dont want to hijack this forum but just wanted to say, sunday night had a early model Impreza wagon & late model Audi S4 try it on. Chewed up & spatt out. Ha...............no mods, just a sweet launch

leetom Proficient

leetom

Posted
Posted
Tried adjusting mine with the the three way switch on the right of the steering column and it didnt do squat. Im gonna have to also check the wiring on the right headlight set up cause I noticed that it flicked off & on a few times. Bodgy brothers strikes again.

Dont want to hijack this forum but just wanted to say, sunday night had a early model Impreza wagon & late model Audi S4 try it on. Chewed up & spatt out. Ha...............no mods, just a sweet launch

holy shitttt that volvo gets into it...........f+*#ck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Murray_Calavera
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • Nightmare_mistress_R33
      No Voltage At Fuel Pump

      By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted

      I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...