Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ford certainly did the falcon a big favour bringing out the turbo model.

caugh caugh 2 forced induction falcons at the top (gt 335)( f6310) how else would u want it :cheers: supercharged 5.0 all alloy beaudiful less than 3k in mods are netting close to 90rwkw gains and bulk torque and to think these will be worth sub 40k in a short few years 12 sec 1/4ers are nice STOCK

Edited by JETURBO

pinch.gif ill save it for another forum dont want to fill this place with holden /ford banter :whistling:

ok fark it ill do it

http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/car_info_ford_falcon_gt.htm

and this was way back when

Hey can't argue with the old GT's - play that card and it's always going to be a winner in your Ford and Holden debates.

I was more so implying the 6T is an absolute winner for the falcon in a sense of that 20 odd year gap between the time of those said GTs models you hint about above, and early 2000's... The falcon wasn't exactly too much of an appealing model to performance enthusiasts (...V8 supercar fans aside!).

And I don't know much about the very latest models, but weren't the top of the line 6T's (f6/typhoon etc) quicker than the V8s?

caugh caugh 2 forced induction falcons at the top (gt 335)( f6310) how else would u want it :cheers: supercharged 5.0 all alloy beaudiful less than 3k in mods are netting close to 90rwkw gains and bulk torque and to think these will be worth sub 40k in a short few years 12 sec 1/4ers are nice STOCK

Jet that was done on a Disney Dyno and for some reason (Fords moreso than Skylines) tend to read a shit load of power more on D & D's for some reason....Skylines also read a little more but not as much.

As for the Blown GT 335, when it goes down to $35K, I'm getting one!!

And I don't know much about the very latest models, but weren't the top of the line 6T's (f6/typhoon etc) quicker than the V8s?

Correct.....and still are

i reckn i nearly got the d/d debate sorted pete yes there terriable with accurate numbers moreso with the ford , i reckn and this is just me, the older 2wd d/d's that have had some years of work blow out with big torque cars that come on earlie , but the 4wd d/d's seems to hold a decent life span acuracy wise ............................any mainlie seems to be a winner regardless of age. ive just been having a look at what alot of ppl are saying across many forums and it does seem to be a common theme n/a cars seem to have the least problems on any dyno. but ill do my head in trying to work it out :teehee: yeh the new gt has a fairly consistant 300rwkw stock on any dyno still great numbers and 114mph is the biscuit right there ......................."Dyno figures make for good conversation, mph at the strip proves it without reservation" ............:cheers:

yeh the b series turbo single handedly saved ford aust no doubt

i was being serious lol if the b series never came out i really doubt we would have a need for ford aust

skyline humm driven heaps every other mate has one but no never owned one looked very seriously at a R34 GTR b4 buying the f6 but just to small cabin wise and for some reason every GTR owner is broke haha, i can see something comming up soon hence the stalking on here just checking some bits out

Ahh nice! Well you obviously love power judging by your sigs; if you do end up landing one I doubt it would be tame machine...

OT wise, much respect for the 6T though. My brother in law had one, and that's the only car that scared the living shit out of me! Insane power

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...