Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im thinking of making my own fibreglass airbox based on the stock one, but to accommodate a pod inside it plus induction from underneath rather than the stock snorkel.

anyone got any tips for me? love to see some aftermarket versions to give me some ideas!

Cheers, Bart.

Edited by bj_dove
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169851-diy-fibreglass-airbox/
Share on other sites

i started once

cut out the templates out of cardboard

masked the area off with think layers of tape to create a buffer between the painted engine bay and where the glass would be layed.

then i ran out of time that day, few days later the tape had all come unstuck so i ripped it out and just made an alloy one up.

this idea is probably the BEST option to take to ensure a completely sealed unit from heat. and once you peel the cardboard off the outside of the box you make, just line it with a heat shield material and it will be perfect.

bj_dove Dude ! Where are you located ? I have one completed in fiberglass. It uses the original snorkel as well. Took me a very long time to get exactally right and Im not keen on posting pics because of people copying the style.

I am still trying to find one that suits what I want. I am thinking about a Plazmaman alloy one

Why don't you want people copying the style? Isnt that the idea of the forum to help each other out?

Oh yes ! I have helped a lot of brothers out on this forum for free and at my own expense as well and not thought twice about it cause thats what you do for people in a club. I put hundreds of hours into the development of that air box and I should just give it away ????? And dont get me wrong I aint after any financial gain for what I do and if someone asks to see it arrange to meet me and see it in person and have a chat on how it was done and I'll help out with them making one for themselves. Im cool with that.

Oh yes ! I have helped a lot of brothers out on this forum for free and at my own expense as well and not thought twice about it cause thats what you do for people in a club. I put hundreds of hours into the development of that air box and I should just give it away ????? And dont get me wrong I aint after any financial gain for what I do and if someone asks to see it arrange to meet me and see it in person and have a chat on how it was done and I'll help out with them making one for themselves. Im cool with that.

No worries mate... understood.

I was just really keen to see it, the more ideas I can get the better.

Yeah I'd love to have one of these fabricated to suit a pod but to use the factory snorkel. Ive seen a few around for sale but im waiting to see a bulletproof version for example the other ones ive seen are not fully enclosed and allow hot air in or you cant use the pod brace to make sure the pod doesnt move. havent seen any around yet. I swear if someone sold one of these they'd make a killing.

  • 1 month later...
Yeah I'd love to have one of these fabricated to suit a pod but to use the factory snorkel. Ive seen a few around for sale but im waiting to see a bulletproof version for example the other ones ive seen are not fully enclosed and allow hot air in or you cant use the pod brace to make sure the pod doesnt move. havent seen any around yet.

What a coincidence! I've recently started making a fabbing a FULLY SEALED airbox for my R33. Some of you may know of the gauge pods that I make, but in a lull with getting cars and designing new gauge pods over the last month I've started doing an airbox in fibreglass - that uses the factory bolts to hold the box and the pod in place. I have a front mount intercooler so this won't suit a car with the factory snorkel or factory intercooler return piping. I have a mate who wants one for his standard intercooler fitting as well and who knows - I may end up selling them if there's interest :rolleyes:

I'm moving slowly on the fabrication and have only done the main box part and no lid so it's not finished, but I have no problems in posting some pics if anybody wants. The lid will be sealed for my design but will incorprate the use of the factory snorkel for the other one.

-Alan

I'll try and get the box to reasonable fabricaiton point and upload some pics this week. As PLYNX said, it does take a very long time to get it all lined up right and fitting well.

For the benefit of bj_dove (originator of thread) and anyone else who's doing airboxes, I've been trying to think of ways to secure the lid. Anyone got any (simple & effective) ideas? I don't like the idea of using screws in fibreglass because you may eventually strip any thread you made. I thought of actually mounting magnets/latches (the ones you find on cupbaord doors) to keep the lid on.

Comments?...

I'll try and get the box to reasonable fabricaiton point and upload some pics this week. As PLYNX said, it does take a very long time to get it all lined up right and fitting well.

For the benefit of bj_dove (originator of thread) and anyone else who's doing airboxes, I've been trying to think of ways to secure the lid. Anyone got any (simple & effective) ideas? I don't like the idea of using screws in fibreglass because you may eventually strip any thread you made. I thought of actually mounting magnets/latches (the ones you find on cupbaord doors) to keep the lid on.

Comments?...

you can buy tool sets that are half fivet/half nut.

basically you press the threaded section into a hole, then you can use a normal bolt. kinda hard to describe, its a bit like a threaded eyelet.

I also started looking at my air box again after a bit of a break and was going to use small cabnet latches to hold the lid down. These are similar to the lockdown clips that the original air boxes use and are available from Bunnings. Three will suffice on my airbox as one side slips under the front gard. I was really after the speed of removal that the original latches have. also the one I have built is for the original intercooler piping.

Quick related question here:

Would there be any merit in fabbing up a fibreglass snorkel to replace the stock one while using the stock airbox?

Basically to get a ram intake effect?

Just noticed that the stock one has airflow dividers and looks like it might be a bit convoluted in terms of flow, thought it might be possible that a custom one with a bigger opening perhaps extending a little lower down into the frontal airflow could be beneficial?

Would there be any merit in fabbing up a fibreglass snorkel to replace the stock one while using the stock airbox?

Basically to get a ram intake effect?

Just noticed that the stock one has airflow dividers and looks like it might be a bit convoluted in terms of flow, thought it might be possible that a custom one with a bigger opening perhaps extending a little lower down into the frontal airflow could be beneficial?

For the flow through factory snorkel - I agree that the factory snorkel is not exactly the best internal design especially with the hump in it that goes over the intercooler return pipe. This could certainly be improved to become a "big mouth" design to catch more frontal airflow and smoother internal flow to the stock air box.

As for getting the air into the snorkel, of course the bigger opening in the snorkel the better but with the factory snorkel, the only thing that will really help flow INTO the snorkel would one of Bass Junkys air guides (also in the Fabrication section). These are very well made and a great item btw

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...