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My Car Feels Like It's Hitting R&r But It's A Remaped Ecu

WogsRus

By WogsRus,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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kiwi32 Contributor

kiwi32

Posted
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Check for a vacume leak like a leaking manifold gasket or intercooler pipes and all the vacume hoses even a small leak can cause problems. The easy way to check for a leak is to have the engine idling and spray engine start over all the hoses inlet manifold and intercooler pipes if there is a leak the engine will rev up or splutter when the engine start gets sucked in.

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WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

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yeah going to chech that today, i have some pluming end caps to allow for plumming up of the air compressor and looking for leaks that way.

also founf on the net that the plug near the washer bottle can couse problems, so i am going to clean it up and redo the connection to make sure it's AOK.

other then that i am out of idea.

NewKleer Mentor

NewKleer

Posted
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I did a log of the car this morning and noticed that as soon as it does this and goes funny, the oxygen sensor drops to zero and then bounces back then back to zero,

dropping to zero means really lean, ie could be fuel cut. what do injector duty cycle say as same point?

post up your consult logs would help

just cause the ecu is remapped doesnt mean its necessarily remapped "properly". a few stray values and the car might be cutting all fuel for given points in the map. can the rom be downloaded with consult? if so maybe u could check that out with some rom editor software and see if anything looks dodgy whereever you're having problems

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

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I have the .bin file for it i will PM you with it. It definatly has not got boost cut on the ECU. Like i said teh ECU ran fine for about 6 months, no issues it was briliant, and somethign has gone wrong since then to make it liek it is.

I will do another log of the car tomorrow morning and post it up for you all to see.

I have had a new CAS and AFm on, no differance, new TP and ACC valve, no change, have 6 new injectors to chuck in it and do a full blown leak test on the piping.

NewKleer Mentor

NewKleer

Posted
Posted

did u get any fault codes? under 3500 rpm sounds like possibly a knock sensor issue

and im not up to speed on rom stuff, but if there is a secondary knock map, then maybe its detecting a bit of knock, and then using that knock map (which could have the dodgy value in it) or simply the knock protection is what ur feeling (r&r)

not sure if the ecu listens to knock sensor at idle though, so you may have another issue there.

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

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well got a new ecu and no go still the same issue. I did a full log this morning and am about to go over it and have a look.

I was thinking Knock sensors to, but accoriding to my SAFC II no matter which one i connect to, thy both show simmilar values. I have a set to put on, so that is next on the line.

This may fixnumber two, but still starts like a dog in the morning.

As for fault codes, sweet FA.

stricko Enthusiast

stricko

Posted
Posted (edited)

This sort of sounds like what my car is doing atm. It's standard apart from a 3 inch straight through exhaust and a pod filter. It keeps stopping. Like if you drive along it will stop and then jerk back into life again. It doesn't seem to be related to anything. The only thing maybe is that when it is warm cos i don't remember it doing it while its been cold. I'm thinking it could be something to do with the ingnition because if it was coilpacks it would just miss wouldn't it?

Good luck with your problem WogsRus, hopefully your solution will help me :P

Cheers

Stricko

EDIT: Oh BTW i'm trying to get hold of an ECU Diagnostic tool to see what i can find. Will post the results.

Edited by stricko
WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

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yeah well still searching. I did a pressure test on all IC piping and connection, 50psi and holding no issues there. Still to pressure test the planum.

Getting a new PCV valve for the rocker just in case.

I had two more ecus and it's not that. Nothing to do with mapping, as i had my mates PFC and it still does it with that, and his can has same mods and power.

I have replaced 90% electrical componenets and still nothing. Going to go over teh wiring loom as there has to be something worong with it. HAS too.

boooohhooooo,

NewKleer Mentor

NewKleer

Posted
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pretty sure 0 = lean, which means u have a fuel problem (rather than ignition...if fuel was getting in but no ign, o2 sensor would be rich)

had ur injectors tested/replaced at all? ran any additives etc?

u really need to post logs though...eg is the fuel problem because the ECU is telling the injectors not to inject, or because the injectors arent injecting the fuel (even though the ecu is telling them to)? eg is there an input sensor (afm, engine temp, cas etc) that is messing up at that rpm due to vibration etc, and the ecu is responding accordingly? cant tell without the logs.

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

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i have an a stock reg and a 1:1 rising rate on inline as a precortion. I have the log i posted it here.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=170677

So far i have showed it to a couple of people and taking their instructions on board.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
This sort of sounds like what my car is doing atm. It's standard apart from a 3 inch straight through exhaust and a pod filter. It keeps stopping. Like if you drive along it will stop and then jerk back into life again. It doesn't seem to be related to anything. The only thing maybe is that when it is warm cos i don't remember it doing it while its been cold. I'm thinking it could be something to do with the ingnition because if it was coilpacks it would just miss wouldn't it?

Good luck with your problem WogsRus, hopefully your solution will help me :P

Cheers

Stricko

EDIT: Oh BTW i'm trying to get hold of an ECU Diagnostic tool to see what i can find. Will post the results.

check or replace the CAS with a known good one and see if problem goes away.

Edited by URAS
stricko Enthusiast

stricko

Posted
Posted (edited)
This sort of sounds like what my car is doing atm. It's standard apart from a 3 inch straight through exhaust and a pod filter. It keeps stopping. Like if you drive along it will stop and then jerk back into life again. It doesn't seem to be related to anything. The only thing maybe is that when it is warm cos i don't remember it doing it while its been cold. I'm thinking it could be something to do with the ingnition because if it was coilpacks it would just miss wouldn't it?

Good luck with your problem WogsRus, hopefully your solution will help me

Cheers

Stricko

EDIT: Oh BTW i'm trying to get hold of an ECU Diagnostic tool to see what i can find. Will post the results.

check or replace the CAS with a known good one and see if problem goes away.

Right i've had the ECU diagnostic tool plugged into my car and went for a drive. The CAS reading went up to about 6000rpm even though the engine speed wasn't this and the when it jerked back into life the CAS reading came back to normal. Getting a new CAS ASAP to hopefully fix my problem. The ECU diagnostic tool also said there was a AFM problem. Could this just be because of the CAS being dodgy or could my AFM need replacing as well?

BTW car is a 1993 R32 Skyline GTS-T Type M with 86000kms, 3inch straight through exhaust and pod filter.

Cheers

Stricko

Edited by stricko

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