Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

Im trying to modify the wiring on the std boost solenoid in order to get full boost ... I read the DIY thread but it was a little unclear..

I was wondering if someone can explain it to me in other words.. I'm a little confused as to which end of black wire (ground) i should be grounding. and also it also talks about a lead wire to the black wire ???

I know I sound pretty hopless and i would appreciate any help ..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170390-high-boost-with-stock-solenoid/
Share on other sites

if your unsure, why not ground both ends? or leave it, run your own wire on a switch through to a ground... then you can choose what you want :O

best idea is to cut off the plastic around the wire (not easy to do) connect your own wire, run it into the cabin onto a switch, run the otherside to the chasis... thats what ive done, its wicked :)

but what you could do if your unsure about which one to ground, start the car and try grounding one end... you can hear a click if it works...

have you already cut it?

yes... but you need a switch on that too...

your basically making a T with the wires... when the switch is off, it will act as normal, when its on, it will be in high boost mode...

so connect your wire to the stripped wire, run your wire into the cabin to a switch somewhere, mount the switch, then run the wire off the switch onto anywhere on the chassis...

get it?

and make sure to clean up everything, dont leave any exposed wire anywhere...

to wherever you wish to mount it...

find a place thats out of sight but still easily reachable...

there are a few switch houses on the dash near the steering wheel that were never really used... use one of those...

i know a place where you can put 5 that no one else has thought of yet... but thats my thing :woot:

geez you're secretive Doof. :woot:

just-drift-it: stick your head under your dash there are brackets all over the joint. i mounted my switch on the right hand side in the coin holder. the closest bit available for me is a bracket for holding one of the relays under the dash. even had a convenient hole for me to bolt a washer crimp thing onto

where is the best place to run the wire into the cabin from the solenoid??

On the same side of the engine bay as the solenoid, but on the firewall, there is a rubber grommet thing that probably already has some wires running through it. If you run the wire through there it will come out in the passenger footwell. I found that a wire coat hanger helped pull the wire through.

with this grounding solenoid stuff, i just ripped it off completely n ran a line straight from cooler pipe to actuator, never had any dramas, that was 7lb all day everyday.

Cool so this works does it?? so you bypass the solenoid completely and run off the actuator. its better this way i guess so you dont burn out the solenoid but is it safe?? any opinions

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...